I never tire of chocolate ice cream. However, on those rare occasions when I venture beyond chocolate territory, I search out the exotic. Yesterday I went to Chaa Chaa, a small Thai cafe/bakery/ice cream shop which offers a truly unique selection of homemade ice cream flavors, such as black sticky rice, coconut black bean, jasmine palm, lychee and durian. (Yes, you read that correctly. The unlikely fruit seems to be taking Manhattan by storm, making appearances in the cream pie at 5 Ninth and the ice cream at Spice Market!) For those of you who prefer more conventional ice cream, there's also strawberry, pistachio and double dutch chocolate.
Chaa Chaa serves a three-course lunch special for $7, which includes a summer roll (basically a salad tightly wrapped into a thin rice flour tortilla), a choice of chicken or beef curry with rice, and ice cream. Who can resist a lunch special that includes ice cream!
Chaa Chaa: 244 E. 13th St., (212) 529-8770.
Sunday, June 20, 2004
Friday, June 18, 2004
Cold Hot Chocolate
Just in time for the heat wave, Brooklyn's very own Jacques Torres Chocolate has invented a new, refreshing beverage to soothe one's soul: "Cold Hot Chocolate"! Flavored with a bit of mandarin and served ice-cold, it's the perfect remedy for a day spent on hot subway platforms.
Jacques Torres Chocolate: 66 Water St., Brooklyn, (718) 875-9772.
Jacques Torres Chocolate: 66 Water St., Brooklyn, (718) 875-9772.
Tuesday, June 15, 2004
Munching in Montauk (Part 3: Oyster Pond Restaurant & Bar)
We concluded our trip with a memorable meal at Oyster Pond.
The oak-paneled walls and floral banquettes provided an atmosphere of relaxed elegance in which to dine. Warm rosemary focaccia dipped in olive oil whetted our appetites. We began with lobster gazpacho, a unique variation on the summer classic. This was the perfect gazpacho; pulpy, not vinegary or watery, and slightly piquant. In between bites of fresh tomato were sweet chunks of lobster. Our waitress raved about Chef Anthony Alinovi's homemade stocks and sauces when we remarked upon the excellence of the soup. I also enjoyed smearing a flaky ginger-spiked spring roll in hot mustard. The miso-based dressing on the accompanying green salad was among the best I've ever tasted.
Entree time! A soy-mirin glaze added a touch of salty-sweetness to my grilled yellowfin tuna. The large hunk of fish was sprinkled with sesame seeds, punctuated with pickled ginger and wasabi and served on a bed of sticky rice and julienned vegetables. My companion opted for a grilled pizza covered with wild mushrooms, onions and black olives.
We ended this wonderful last meal in Montauk with a chocolate soufflé. A scoop of homemade caramel swirl ice cream (they also have malted milk ball and chocolate caramel swirl) and ribbons of mango and raspberry coulis were fun to mix with the inner chocolate center of the cake.
Oyster Pond Restaurant & Bar: 4 S. Elmwood, Montauk, (631) 668-4200.
The oak-paneled walls and floral banquettes provided an atmosphere of relaxed elegance in which to dine. Warm rosemary focaccia dipped in olive oil whetted our appetites. We began with lobster gazpacho, a unique variation on the summer classic. This was the perfect gazpacho; pulpy, not vinegary or watery, and slightly piquant. In between bites of fresh tomato were sweet chunks of lobster. Our waitress raved about Chef Anthony Alinovi's homemade stocks and sauces when we remarked upon the excellence of the soup. I also enjoyed smearing a flaky ginger-spiked spring roll in hot mustard. The miso-based dressing on the accompanying green salad was among the best I've ever tasted.
Entree time! A soy-mirin glaze added a touch of salty-sweetness to my grilled yellowfin tuna. The large hunk of fish was sprinkled with sesame seeds, punctuated with pickled ginger and wasabi and served on a bed of sticky rice and julienned vegetables. My companion opted for a grilled pizza covered with wild mushrooms, onions and black olives.
We ended this wonderful last meal in Montauk with a chocolate soufflé. A scoop of homemade caramel swirl ice cream (they also have malted milk ball and chocolate caramel swirl) and ribbons of mango and raspberry coulis were fun to mix with the inner chocolate center of the cake.
Oyster Pond Restaurant & Bar: 4 S. Elmwood, Montauk, (631) 668-4200.
Monday, June 14, 2004
Munching in Montauk (Part 2: Fudge N' Stuff, etc.)
In between that first lovely meal at the Shagwong and the final one at Oyster Pond (which I shall detail shortly), I also thoroughly enjoyed:
Fudge N' Stuff (The Plaza, 631-668-4724): Every beach town seems to have a homemade fudge shop. Most of my childhood summers were spent gorging at Candy Kitchen in Ocean City, MD, so I felt right at home at Fudge N' Stuff. This little shop is chock full of such flavors as Cookies & Cream, Almond Joy and Mud Pie. It's also full of smiles!
Mr. John's Pancake and Steak House (Main St., 631-668-2383): All that laying out in the sun can make a person hungry. Sunbathers should carbo-load with a morning plate of pancakes at Mr. John's. This comfy diner serves many varieties of griddlecakes: chocolate-chip, coconut/coconut syrup, cinnamon-raisin... I opted for some whole-wheat banana pecan cakes, which seemed even larger than the plate they arrived on.
Montauk Bake Shoppe (The Plaza, 631-668-2439): It's no wonder that this bakery has been around since the 50's. The jelly-filled croissants, tomato red onion flatbreads, and lobster-shaped cookies render it a regional, if not national, treasure.
Gosman's Fish Market (Gosman's Dock, 631-668-5645): Although almost everything at Gosman's Restaurant left me cold (except for the sherry-spiked lobster bisque), I was mightily impressed by the gorgeous fish market in the complex, which sells any fish or seafood one's heart might desire, including gorgeous lobsters.
Fudge N' Stuff (The Plaza, 631-668-4724): Every beach town seems to have a homemade fudge shop. Most of my childhood summers were spent gorging at Candy Kitchen in Ocean City, MD, so I felt right at home at Fudge N' Stuff. This little shop is chock full of such flavors as Cookies & Cream, Almond Joy and Mud Pie. It's also full of smiles!
Mr. John's Pancake and Steak House (Main St., 631-668-2383): All that laying out in the sun can make a person hungry. Sunbathers should carbo-load with a morning plate of pancakes at Mr. John's. This comfy diner serves many varieties of griddlecakes: chocolate-chip, coconut/coconut syrup, cinnamon-raisin... I opted for some whole-wheat banana pecan cakes, which seemed even larger than the plate they arrived on.
Montauk Bake Shoppe (The Plaza, 631-668-2439): It's no wonder that this bakery has been around since the 50's. The jelly-filled croissants, tomato red onion flatbreads, and lobster-shaped cookies render it a regional, if not national, treasure.
Gosman's Fish Market (Gosman's Dock, 631-668-5645): Although almost everything at Gosman's Restaurant left me cold (except for the sherry-spiked lobster bisque), I was mightily impressed by the gorgeous fish market in the complex, which sells any fish or seafood one's heart might desire, including gorgeous lobsters.
Sunday, June 13, 2004
Munching in Montauk (Part 1: Shagwong Restaurant)
As the temperature rose this week, I was seized by an uncontrollable desire to be near the ocean. Most of all, I longed to eat fresh fish and seafood by the water. With visions of baked littlenecks in my head, I hopped on a train to Montauk with a companion.
Although we were to enjoy many delicious meals over the course of the trip, the first and last meals stand out in particular: a dinner at the 30-yr-old Shagwong Restaurant, and one at the charmingly rustic Oyster Pond.
Neon fish and lobsters announced the presence of the salt-of-the-earth Shagwong. Once inside, I was captivated by the nautical atmosphere, and even more so by the giant plates of food. The menu overwhelmed me... the wild Atlantic salmon special tempted me. I finally decided on the yellowfin tuna special; unfortunately, so did my companion. Not wanting to miss the opportunity to try more than one entree, I ordered the broiled local fluke. Each dish came with a choice of codfish cake, beef vegetable soup, green salad or cole slaw. We ordered the salad, and settled on the mussels for an appetizer.
We were astonished when a bowl of 40 large mussels arrived at our table. How on earth were we going to finish this "appetizer"? Dipping the plump, sweet mollusks into our garlic white wine sauce, we did manage to make a dent in the pile of large black shells. I also paid some attention to my delicious salad of tomatoes, red onions, field greens, carrots, radicchio, watercress and cucumbers.
No sooner had we signaled our satiety than our entrees were served. My perfectly moist fluke was slathered liberally with lemon butter and served with a toothsome long-grain rice pilaf and steamed carrots and string beans. I eyed my companion's entree with envy: seared, pepper-crusted rare tuna over greens with ponzu sauce, wasabi and pickled ginger. Fortunately, he agreed to share.
Almost stuffed beyond the ability to breathe, I nevertheless asked what was available for dessert. Apple crumb pie? Key lime pie? Cheesecake? The warm molten chocolate cake was my natural choice; Shagwong's denser-than-usual rendition was enough to satisfy both of us, at least until tomorrow.
More about the trip coming soon!
Shagwong Restaurant: Main St., Montauk, (631) 668-3050.
Although we were to enjoy many delicious meals over the course of the trip, the first and last meals stand out in particular: a dinner at the 30-yr-old Shagwong Restaurant, and one at the charmingly rustic Oyster Pond.
Neon fish and lobsters announced the presence of the salt-of-the-earth Shagwong. Once inside, I was captivated by the nautical atmosphere, and even more so by the giant plates of food. The menu overwhelmed me... the wild Atlantic salmon special tempted me. I finally decided on the yellowfin tuna special; unfortunately, so did my companion. Not wanting to miss the opportunity to try more than one entree, I ordered the broiled local fluke. Each dish came with a choice of codfish cake, beef vegetable soup, green salad or cole slaw. We ordered the salad, and settled on the mussels for an appetizer.
We were astonished when a bowl of 40 large mussels arrived at our table. How on earth were we going to finish this "appetizer"? Dipping the plump, sweet mollusks into our garlic white wine sauce, we did manage to make a dent in the pile of large black shells. I also paid some attention to my delicious salad of tomatoes, red onions, field greens, carrots, radicchio, watercress and cucumbers.
No sooner had we signaled our satiety than our entrees were served. My perfectly moist fluke was slathered liberally with lemon butter and served with a toothsome long-grain rice pilaf and steamed carrots and string beans. I eyed my companion's entree with envy: seared, pepper-crusted rare tuna over greens with ponzu sauce, wasabi and pickled ginger. Fortunately, he agreed to share.
Almost stuffed beyond the ability to breathe, I nevertheless asked what was available for dessert. Apple crumb pie? Key lime pie? Cheesecake? The warm molten chocolate cake was my natural choice; Shagwong's denser-than-usual rendition was enough to satisfy both of us, at least until tomorrow.
More about the trip coming soon!
Shagwong Restaurant: Main St., Montauk, (631) 668-3050.
Monday, May 31, 2004
Nick's Pizza and Bonelle Pastry Shop
As any denizen of the outer boroughs knows, it can be difficult to convince a Manhattanite to meet outside the island. However, since moving to Forest Hills, I have tempted many a visitor with an evening of fantastic pizza and pastries, courtesy of Nick's Pizza and Bonelle Pastry Shop.
Typically, I'll meet a friend at the 71st and Continental stop on the E/F train. We'll walk to Ascan Avenue and then wait for a short while in the doorway of Nick's. Soon, we'll be graciously seated and will whet our appetites with a five-leaf salad sprinkled with plenty of Gorgonzola. We'll order a large white pizza with extra garlic and black olives, which will arrive topped with a thick layer of fresh mozzarella and a sprinkling of basil leaves. (One has the choice of ricotta, mozzarella or a combination thereof for the white pizza, but for me, ricotta seems most appropriate in the context of a calzone.) Then we'll order a pizza with luscious tomato sauce and mushrooms. The crust of each pizza will be thin and slightly charred on the bottom.
The tiramisu is fabulous at Nick's, but I'll want to impress my visitor with the variety of goodies at Bonelle Pastry Shop, which is right next door. We will ooh and aah over the chocolate raspberry mousse, strawberry shortcake, carrot cake and oversized eclairs. Everything is always impeccably fresh. On the weekends, if I crave a particular pastry at Bonelle, I make sure to confiscate it early in the morning. (I learned this the hard way; on more than one occasion, I had arrived just after a Long Island gentleman had driven off with all of the chocolate croissants.)
Pay me a visit soon!
Nick's Pizza: 108-26 Ascan Ave., Queens, (718) 263-1126. Bonelle Pastry Shop: 108-30 Ascan Ave., Queens, (718) 575-1792.
Typically, I'll meet a friend at the 71st and Continental stop on the E/F train. We'll walk to Ascan Avenue and then wait for a short while in the doorway of Nick's. Soon, we'll be graciously seated and will whet our appetites with a five-leaf salad sprinkled with plenty of Gorgonzola. We'll order a large white pizza with extra garlic and black olives, which will arrive topped with a thick layer of fresh mozzarella and a sprinkling of basil leaves. (One has the choice of ricotta, mozzarella or a combination thereof for the white pizza, but for me, ricotta seems most appropriate in the context of a calzone.) Then we'll order a pizza with luscious tomato sauce and mushrooms. The crust of each pizza will be thin and slightly charred on the bottom.
The tiramisu is fabulous at Nick's, but I'll want to impress my visitor with the variety of goodies at Bonelle Pastry Shop, which is right next door. We will ooh and aah over the chocolate raspberry mousse, strawberry shortcake, carrot cake and oversized eclairs. Everything is always impeccably fresh. On the weekends, if I crave a particular pastry at Bonelle, I make sure to confiscate it early in the morning. (I learned this the hard way; on more than one occasion, I had arrived just after a Long Island gentleman had driven off with all of the chocolate croissants.)
Pay me a visit soon!
Nick's Pizza: 108-26 Ascan Ave., Queens, (718) 263-1126. Bonelle Pastry Shop: 108-30 Ascan Ave., Queens, (718) 575-1792.
Thursday, May 13, 2004
Steve's Authentic Key Lime Pie
Yesterday, I received the news that the best key lime pie in the world will be available at the corner of 48th Street during the annual Ninth Avenue International Food Festival. What makes this pie so extraordinary? Fresh-squeezed key lime juice, a graham cracker crust made with 100% pure butter, and the single-minded dedication of Steve Tarpin (the "Pie Man").
My craving thus awakened, I knew I couldn't wait for the weekend (or for overnight delivery). There was only one solution: to rush over to Alma, the popular Mexican restaurant that offers this amazing pie.
Ninth Avenue International Food Festival: 9th Ave. from 37th-57th Streets, May 15-May 16.
My craving thus awakened, I knew I couldn't wait for the weekend (or for overnight delivery). There was only one solution: to rush over to Alma, the popular Mexican restaurant that offers this amazing pie.
Ninth Avenue International Food Festival: 9th Ave. from 37th-57th Streets, May 15-May 16.
Monday, May 10, 2004
Mary's Dairy (CLOSED as of 10/07)
As I walked down West 4th St. on this warm spring day, I found myself craving chocolate ice cream. I was about to ignore this desire and hop on the subway when I noticed Mary's Dairy, a brand-new super-premium ice cream shop.
The chocolate options were numerous. "Exotic" flavors included "Sandy": Belgian chocolate with pieces of pistachio halvah, "Hawaii Five-O Callebaut": chocolate with Callebaut chips and macadamias, "White On White": French vanilla with white Callebaut chips, and "Ying Yang", milk chocolate with Valrhona chips. I opted for the latter, topped with a generous portion of thick-as-molasses "Inoue" bittersweet hot fudge. The ice cream was not overly sugary, but it was unbelievably creamy. The hot fudge was out of this world!
On a day in which I'm feeling even more decadent, I might try the "Too Much Is Just About Enough!": three scoops of ice cream sitting on a brownie, a Krispy Kreme donut and a homemade chocolate chip cookie!
Mary's Dairy: 171 West 4th St., (212) 242-6874.
The chocolate options were numerous. "Exotic" flavors included "Sandy": Belgian chocolate with pieces of pistachio halvah, "Hawaii Five-O Callebaut": chocolate with Callebaut chips and macadamias, "White On White": French vanilla with white Callebaut chips, and "Ying Yang", milk chocolate with Valrhona chips. I opted for the latter, topped with a generous portion of thick-as-molasses "Inoue" bittersweet hot fudge. The ice cream was not overly sugary, but it was unbelievably creamy. The hot fudge was out of this world!
On a day in which I'm feeling even more decadent, I might try the "Too Much Is Just About Enough!": three scoops of ice cream sitting on a brownie, a Krispy Kreme donut and a homemade chocolate chip cookie!
Mary's Dairy: 171 West 4th St., (212) 242-6874.
Thursday, May 06, 2004
Megu
Upon first glance, Megu seems to be a Japanese art gallery. All that is visible from the street is a giant hinomaru; the grand dining room is only visible once you descend the stairs. The cavernous space, housing an ice sculpture of the Buddha, is somewhat reminiscent of the room at Tao. Fortunately, the emphasis on atmosphere does not come at the expense of the food.
My dining companions were late, so I entertained myself by reading through the encyclopedic menus. The food menu includes a long dictionary of ingredients and a map of Japan organized by foodstuffs. The sake and shochu menu offers colorful descriptions of the 60 available sakes as well as a variety of sake trivia. Did you know that the oldest-known Japanese brewery keeps records dating back 860 years?
My hunger seemed to be escalating by the minute, so I was extremely happy when my friends arrived. (One of them mistook Thompson Street for Thomas Street.) We hurriedly set about ordering a great amount of food.
Megu's menu is divided into larger and smaller dishes, rather than appetizers and entrees. We wanted to sample an equal variety of raw and cooked foods; fish is a specialty, as it is flown in from Tokyo's famous Tsukiji Market.
We began with well-salted edamame on the branch (a presentation I had not seen before), red miso soup, and a citrusy "Japanese Caesar" salad. Then it was time for sushi and sashimi: a small chirashi of shrimp, tuna and yellowtail topped with strips of nori and a dollop of the freshest sweet sea urchin; thin slices of yellowtail sashimi served in an ice lantern; and a "black diamond" maki containing three kinds of tuna. We continued the feast with one more raw appetizer: a mound of ikura-studded salmon tartare served with crackers of salty salmon skin.
After a grapefruit palate cleanser, it was time for the cooked portion of our meal. We enjoyed a fantastic yellowtail teriyaki; the sweet rice wine was immediately apparent in the sauce. A whole fried sanma (needlefish) was battered in breadcrumbs and stuffed with three misos. We couldn't get enough of the charcoal-grilled skewers of Kobe beef, chu toro (premium tuna belly) and chicken tenderloin, topped with fried garlic or wasabi sauce. One of my companions was on the Atkins diet, so he enjoyed the meats to his heart's content. I (not being on any kind of diet) accompanied my meal with rice and a glass of Kikumasamune sake.
Amazingly, we (minus the Atkins dieter) were still interested in dessert after all of this. We continued the hot and cold theme by trying a hot chocolate souffle stuffed with sweet black beans instead of gooey chocolate sauce, and a "katekin" green-tea custard. (The willpower of the Atkins dieter faltered slightly, and I spied his fork edging closer towards the dessert plates.)
A soothing cup of genmaicha (popped rice green tea) provided an authentic end to this magnificent meal.
Megu: 62 Thomas St., (212) 964-7777.
My dining companions were late, so I entertained myself by reading through the encyclopedic menus. The food menu includes a long dictionary of ingredients and a map of Japan organized by foodstuffs. The sake and shochu menu offers colorful descriptions of the 60 available sakes as well as a variety of sake trivia. Did you know that the oldest-known Japanese brewery keeps records dating back 860 years?
My hunger seemed to be escalating by the minute, so I was extremely happy when my friends arrived. (One of them mistook Thompson Street for Thomas Street.) We hurriedly set about ordering a great amount of food.
Megu's menu is divided into larger and smaller dishes, rather than appetizers and entrees. We wanted to sample an equal variety of raw and cooked foods; fish is a specialty, as it is flown in from Tokyo's famous Tsukiji Market.
We began with well-salted edamame on the branch (a presentation I had not seen before), red miso soup, and a citrusy "Japanese Caesar" salad. Then it was time for sushi and sashimi: a small chirashi of shrimp, tuna and yellowtail topped with strips of nori and a dollop of the freshest sweet sea urchin; thin slices of yellowtail sashimi served in an ice lantern; and a "black diamond" maki containing three kinds of tuna. We continued the feast with one more raw appetizer: a mound of ikura-studded salmon tartare served with crackers of salty salmon skin.
After a grapefruit palate cleanser, it was time for the cooked portion of our meal. We enjoyed a fantastic yellowtail teriyaki; the sweet rice wine was immediately apparent in the sauce. A whole fried sanma (needlefish) was battered in breadcrumbs and stuffed with three misos. We couldn't get enough of the charcoal-grilled skewers of Kobe beef, chu toro (premium tuna belly) and chicken tenderloin, topped with fried garlic or wasabi sauce. One of my companions was on the Atkins diet, so he enjoyed the meats to his heart's content. I (not being on any kind of diet) accompanied my meal with rice and a glass of Kikumasamune sake.
Amazingly, we (minus the Atkins dieter) were still interested in dessert after all of this. We continued the hot and cold theme by trying a hot chocolate souffle stuffed with sweet black beans instead of gooey chocolate sauce, and a "katekin" green-tea custard. (The willpower of the Atkins dieter faltered slightly, and I spied his fork edging closer towards the dessert plates.)
A soothing cup of genmaicha (popped rice green tea) provided an authentic end to this magnificent meal.
Megu: 62 Thomas St., (212) 964-7777.
Tuesday, May 04, 2004
Spice Grill (Closed as of 2006)
For many moons, I lamented the closing of Tiffin, a great Indian spot downtown. The graceful service, elegant presentation and richly spiced food made the restaurant one of my personal favorites.
So, I was very pleased to find that Tiffin had reopened as Spice Grill. When I stepped inside today, I was greeted by an impressive lunch buffet. Every weekday morning, Chef Jai Rao goes to the market to decide what the daily dishes will be. Today, the buffet included hot eggplant salad with black mustard seed, tandoori chicken, spicy lamb stew and crispy lentil fritters. I was in heaven as I garnished my plate with salty mango pickles and ladled on the cucumber raita and tamarind sauce. As I sat down to eat, I received a basket of hot crackly buttered nan to sop up the sauce with.
All selections were subtly spiced, greaseless and exceedingly tasty! I assure you that you will never look at an all-you-can-eat lunch buffet the same way after eating at Spice Grill.
Spice Grill: 18 Murray St., (212) 791-3511.
So, I was very pleased to find that Tiffin had reopened as Spice Grill. When I stepped inside today, I was greeted by an impressive lunch buffet. Every weekday morning, Chef Jai Rao goes to the market to decide what the daily dishes will be. Today, the buffet included hot eggplant salad with black mustard seed, tandoori chicken, spicy lamb stew and crispy lentil fritters. I was in heaven as I garnished my plate with salty mango pickles and ladled on the cucumber raita and tamarind sauce. As I sat down to eat, I received a basket of hot crackly buttered nan to sop up the sauce with.
All selections were subtly spiced, greaseless and exceedingly tasty! I assure you that you will never look at an all-you-can-eat lunch buffet the same way after eating at Spice Grill.
Spice Grill: 18 Murray St., (212) 791-3511.
Friday, April 30, 2004
Vosges Haut-Chocolat
Tomorrow, Vosges Haut-Chocolat will debut four of the most innovative ice cream flavors around! Red Fire is a dark chocolate accented with chili and cinnamon, Naga is a coconut white chocolate with a touch of curry, Pandan is a dark chocolate with nutty Southeast Asian pandan leaves, and Wattleseed features Australian macadamias and aboriginal wattleseeds.
If you can't wait until tomorrow for these flavor combinations, stop by today and purchase a Red Fire or Naga chocolate bar. (They're addictive.)
Vosges Haut-Chocolat: 132 Spring St., (212) 625-2929.
If you can't wait until tomorrow for these flavor combinations, stop by today and purchase a Red Fire or Naga chocolate bar. (They're addictive.)
Vosges Haut-Chocolat: 132 Spring St., (212) 625-2929.
Tuesday, April 27, 2004
Three Great Cups Of Coffee
I'm always searching for good, strong coffee and an inviting atmosphere in which to enjoy it. Here are three cafés where I like to linger over an espresso:
Manhattan: Kiva Café is a surprising oasis of calm right above bustling Canal Street. It's a pleasure to sip from the beautiful mugs sculpted by owner/artist Beebe Okaye. The coffee, made with beans from Red Hook's Espresso Emporium, is terrific, as are the fresh-baked chocolate-chip cookies. There's also a full menu of sandwiches, savory tarts, and salads. A changing installation of original local artwork provides visual stimulation.
Kiva Café, 229 Hudson St., (212) 229-0898.
Queens: Munch Café & Grill (CLOSED), which occupies a quiet corner of Forest Hills, is the place to "eat, drink and unwind." I've enjoyed many a morning with a cup of their French press coffee, brewed with Queens-roasted Kudo Beans. For an extra-strong cup, try the Kenya or Ethiopian Harrar roasts. A jumbo egg sandwich on a roll is only $2.00, and according to the owner, there will soon be a new menu featuring various rice-based dishes.
Munch Café & Grill: 71-60 Yellowstone Blvd., Queens, (718) 544-0075.
Brooklyn On weekends, the popular Half Wine Bar Lounge becomes a lovely spot for a latte, opening at 9 a.m. If you like the coffee at 71 Irving Place Coffee and Tea Bar in Gramercy Park, you'll also enjoy it at Half, because the café uses the same beans. The chocolate croissants and wild blueberry muffins are baked at the nearby Blue Sky Bakery. But if you're still thinking about wine after your muffin and coffee, the tiny shop and library offer a collection of books to educate your inner sommelier.
Half Wine Bar Lounge: 626 Vanderbilt Avenue, Brooklyn, (718) 783-4100.
Manhattan: Kiva Café is a surprising oasis of calm right above bustling Canal Street. It's a pleasure to sip from the beautiful mugs sculpted by owner/artist Beebe Okaye. The coffee, made with beans from Red Hook's Espresso Emporium, is terrific, as are the fresh-baked chocolate-chip cookies. There's also a full menu of sandwiches, savory tarts, and salads. A changing installation of original local artwork provides visual stimulation.
Kiva Café, 229 Hudson St., (212) 229-0898.
Queens: Munch Café & Grill (CLOSED), which occupies a quiet corner of Forest Hills, is the place to "eat, drink and unwind." I've enjoyed many a morning with a cup of their French press coffee, brewed with Queens-roasted Kudo Beans. For an extra-strong cup, try the Kenya or Ethiopian Harrar roasts. A jumbo egg sandwich on a roll is only $2.00, and according to the owner, there will soon be a new menu featuring various rice-based dishes.
Munch Café & Grill: 71-60 Yellowstone Blvd., Queens, (718) 544-0075.
Brooklyn On weekends, the popular Half Wine Bar Lounge becomes a lovely spot for a latte, opening at 9 a.m. If you like the coffee at 71 Irving Place Coffee and Tea Bar in Gramercy Park, you'll also enjoy it at Half, because the café uses the same beans. The chocolate croissants and wild blueberry muffins are baked at the nearby Blue Sky Bakery. But if you're still thinking about wine after your muffin and coffee, the tiny shop and library offer a collection of books to educate your inner sommelier.
Half Wine Bar Lounge: 626 Vanderbilt Avenue, Brooklyn, (718) 783-4100.
Thursday, April 22, 2004
Black Hound Bakery
Whenever I visit my grandmother, I bring her a cake or a pie. She knows her Upper East Side neighborhood inside and out, so I like to surprise her with treats from foreign lands below 59th Street. Lately I've been delighting her with goodies from the excellent Black Hound Bakery.
It's easy to be overwhelmed by the amazing variety of sweets at Black Hound. Jumbo chocolate-enrobed strawberries, tarts, truffles, cakes, tiny butter cookies, sweet cherries in syrup, and many other marvels beckon to the visitor. Today, feeling like Little Red Riding Hood, I filled a bag with four strawberries, an apple-ginger tart with a buttery cookie crust, a poppy-seed lemon curd white-chocolate-iced cake, and a hazelnut chocolate cake decorated with small candy bees. My grandmother's eyes lit up when I arrived at her apartment and presented her with the bag. She said she would look forward to sampling the sweets after dinner.
Apparently she was satisfied, because according to my aunt, she was later seen licking the white chocolate icing off of her fingers.
Black Hound Bakery: 170 2nd Ave., (212) 979-9505.
It's easy to be overwhelmed by the amazing variety of sweets at Black Hound. Jumbo chocolate-enrobed strawberries, tarts, truffles, cakes, tiny butter cookies, sweet cherries in syrup, and many other marvels beckon to the visitor. Today, feeling like Little Red Riding Hood, I filled a bag with four strawberries, an apple-ginger tart with a buttery cookie crust, a poppy-seed lemon curd white-chocolate-iced cake, and a hazelnut chocolate cake decorated with small candy bees. My grandmother's eyes lit up when I arrived at her apartment and presented her with the bag. She said she would look forward to sampling the sweets after dinner.
Apparently she was satisfied, because according to my aunt, she was later seen licking the white chocolate icing off of her fingers.
Black Hound Bakery: 170 2nd Ave., (212) 979-9505.
Saturday, April 10, 2004
My Kitchen Wars
Can you turn out a perfect pate en croute? Do you know how to whip up homemade mayonnaise? You will learn these techniques, as well as some valuable life lessons, in My Kitchen Wars. This stunning one-woman play is based on the memoirs of renowned food writer and chef Betty Fussell.
Superb actress/playwright Dorothy Lyman (as Fussell) invites you into her kitchen to share some "fresh coffee with the taste of bittersweet chocolate." At once, you are enthralled with her portrayal of a woman who has lost and then found herself again through the art of cooking. During the 95-minute play, Lyman prepares a lobster bisque, a lobster salad with lime mayonnaise, and a Grand Marnier souffle. (These food preparations, as well as the many allusions to eating, will leave you quite hungry. Therefore, I recommend dining beforehand! To put yourself in the mood, you might pay a pre-theatre visit to at Bouley to feast on the "Maine Day-Boat Lobster Prepared in an Exotic Manner with Lychee Sugar Snap Peas, Asparagus and Blood Orange" ).
Fussell's life experiences are poignantly described through metaphors about food. She tries to "make a bisque out of the carcass of her marriage." A mayonnaise, the temporary emulsion of oil and lemon juice, is the "momentary truce" of a tenuous relationship. A dockside cafe in Calais serves "real bread and real butter," and is the beginning of Fussell's gradual awakening to the new possibilities in her life.
Watching Lyman at work in the kitchen, I was impressed by her ability to captivate the audience while preparing a three-course meal! Aside from being a great cook, Lyman is an accomplished television actress and director. She will be performing in My Kitchen Wars through May (or beyond), as well as in the Downtown Urban Theatre Festival on May 21.
Singer Melissa Sweeney spices up the production with jazzy interludes, some of them food-related as well. (Salmon and backgammon, anyone?)
My Kitchen Wars: 78th Street Theatre Lab, 236 W. 78th St., (212) 391-1547.
Superb actress/playwright Dorothy Lyman (as Fussell) invites you into her kitchen to share some "fresh coffee with the taste of bittersweet chocolate." At once, you are enthralled with her portrayal of a woman who has lost and then found herself again through the art of cooking. During the 95-minute play, Lyman prepares a lobster bisque, a lobster salad with lime mayonnaise, and a Grand Marnier souffle. (These food preparations, as well as the many allusions to eating, will leave you quite hungry. Therefore, I recommend dining beforehand! To put yourself in the mood, you might pay a pre-theatre visit to at Bouley to feast on the "Maine Day-Boat Lobster Prepared in an Exotic Manner with Lychee Sugar Snap Peas, Asparagus and Blood Orange" ).
Fussell's life experiences are poignantly described through metaphors about food. She tries to "make a bisque out of the carcass of her marriage." A mayonnaise, the temporary emulsion of oil and lemon juice, is the "momentary truce" of a tenuous relationship. A dockside cafe in Calais serves "real bread and real butter," and is the beginning of Fussell's gradual awakening to the new possibilities in her life.
Watching Lyman at work in the kitchen, I was impressed by her ability to captivate the audience while preparing a three-course meal! Aside from being a great cook, Lyman is an accomplished television actress and director. She will be performing in My Kitchen Wars through May (or beyond), as well as in the Downtown Urban Theatre Festival on May 21.
Singer Melissa Sweeney spices up the production with jazzy interludes, some of them food-related as well. (Salmon and backgammon, anyone?)
My Kitchen Wars: 78th Street Theatre Lab, 236 W. 78th St., (212) 391-1547.
Tuesday, April 06, 2004
Paula Stevens Burecas
"When I was a girl in Argentina, I loved the sound of the piano," said Paula as she wrapped me up an almond half-moon cookie. "I would always hear the music coming from the neighbors' living rooms, and I wanted so badly to learn to play. But we had my grandmother living with us, so I wasn't allowed."
It is to our benefit that Paula's creativity was instead focused on the art of baking. Her deceptively nondescript storefront conceals amazing stuffed breads: burecas with eggplant, cheese, potato and spinach-cheese fillings. As you buy your first box of six or twelve, she will exhort you, "Whatever you do, don't put these in the microwave!" Two or three of them make a wonderful meal, but I recommend calling ahead, as the eggplant variety sells out quickly. My favorite filling is the chopped spinach and cheese. If you prefer a flaky pastry rather than a stuffed bread, try the "bulemas," which contain the same delicious fillings within layers of paper-thin filo dough.
Paula is at work in her kitchen six days a week, baking cookies and breads for weddings. She lovingly photographs the food at every event she caters, and will gladly show you her photo album. (She will also proudly show you a picture of her son.)
When I asked if Paula's last name were "Stevens", she replied, "No, that was my late husband's name." She then mentioned that she's looking for a nice 68- or 69-yr-old man who enjoys baked goods (80 is too old). Disclaimer: Paula promised me a lifetime of free burecas if I am able to find her such a gentleman; if you know someone, please contact me!
Paula Stevens Burecas: 6379 Saunders St., Queens, NY, (718) 459-7276.
It is to our benefit that Paula's creativity was instead focused on the art of baking. Her deceptively nondescript storefront conceals amazing stuffed breads: burecas with eggplant, cheese, potato and spinach-cheese fillings. As you buy your first box of six or twelve, she will exhort you, "Whatever you do, don't put these in the microwave!" Two or three of them make a wonderful meal, but I recommend calling ahead, as the eggplant variety sells out quickly. My favorite filling is the chopped spinach and cheese. If you prefer a flaky pastry rather than a stuffed bread, try the "bulemas," which contain the same delicious fillings within layers of paper-thin filo dough.
Paula is at work in her kitchen six days a week, baking cookies and breads for weddings. She lovingly photographs the food at every event she caters, and will gladly show you her photo album. (She will also proudly show you a picture of her son.)
When I asked if Paula's last name were "Stevens", she replied, "No, that was my late husband's name." She then mentioned that she's looking for a nice 68- or 69-yr-old man who enjoys baked goods (80 is too old). Disclaimer: Paula promised me a lifetime of free burecas if I am able to find her such a gentleman; if you know someone, please contact me!
Paula Stevens Burecas: 6379 Saunders St., Queens, NY, (718) 459-7276.
Friday, March 26, 2004
Chocolate for Dinner
This isn't as radical of a concept as it sounds; check out the savory new offerings at Christopher Norman Chocolates. You can start your meal with some of their avocado cream truffles. Your next course will be a peanut butter cup with a touch of fleur de sel. And, starting next week, you'll be able to sink your teeth into a goat cheese Champagne black pepper truffle. It's never been easier to make a meal of dessert!
Christopher Norman Chocolates, 60 New St., (212) 402-1243.
Christopher Norman Chocolates, 60 New St., (212) 402-1243.
Thursday, March 18, 2004
A Working Fireplace in March
It’s March, but the frigid weather has me thinking about chestnuts roasting over an open fire. Recently, I warmed myself by the fireplace in the bar at Public. Last night was especially cold, so I reveled in the crackling fire at the entrance of March Restaurant.
The multi-course meal at March is one of the most elegant experiences one can have in the city. The diner chooses the desired number of courses (we opted for four) from a menu divided into raw, vegetarian, seafood, fish, poultry and meat categories.
As we relaxed into our seats, our waiter brought by a basket of hot twist rolls fragrant with rosemary; I knew it would be a challenge to resist them throughout the evening. The amuse bouche was a salmon wonton, tomato on toast and the chef’s nod to St. Patrick’s Day: a bit of corned beef on a tiny cabbage leaf. Our appetites suitably aroused, we then inhaled our raw courses: thinly-sliced fluke sashimi sprinkled with sesame seeds and chives, and a rosette of smoked salmon accompanied by a dollop of zesty lemon cream and bulgur risotto. The sashimi was lightly dressed with olive oil, reminiscent of the crudo at Esca (another favorite restaurant of mine).
I again resisted the temptation of another dinner roll, and our next course began: seafood for me and vegetarian for my companion. I enjoyed four scallop-stuffed ravioli in a rich tomato cream, while my companion’s dish was a surprisingly sweet maitake mushroom with Japanese green soybeans in a mild parsnip broth.
After relaxing over a glass of Pinot Noir, we started in on our entrees (fish for me and poultry for my companion). My sea bass was perfectly seared with deliciously crispy skin, and it rested on another extraordinary mushroom preparation: black trumpet mushrooms mashed into a tasty, root-vegetable-like paste. A slightly sweet port-wine reduction wonderfully complemented the richness of the bass and a few fingerling potatoes completed the dish. My companion raved about his poached chicken breast, served with roulades of dark meat with spinach and pine nuts in the center.
We were then served a bracing fruit-studded apple-wine gelee to ready our appetites for dessert. At this point I was almost full, but I always have room for chocolate, and this night was no exception to the rule. Two small domes of warm Valrhona chocolate cake were a perfect ending for me, and my companion wasted no time in polishing off his frozen coconut soufflé. (He wanted me to inform you that it reminded him of a frozen Toasted Almond bar.) Then, a plate of homemade almond brittle arrived.
Walking out the door, we again briefly enjoyed the fireplace, and soon we were off into the cold night.
March Restaurant: 405 E. 58th St., (212) 754-6272.
The multi-course meal at March is one of the most elegant experiences one can have in the city. The diner chooses the desired number of courses (we opted for four) from a menu divided into raw, vegetarian, seafood, fish, poultry and meat categories.
As we relaxed into our seats, our waiter brought by a basket of hot twist rolls fragrant with rosemary; I knew it would be a challenge to resist them throughout the evening. The amuse bouche was a salmon wonton, tomato on toast and the chef’s nod to St. Patrick’s Day: a bit of corned beef on a tiny cabbage leaf. Our appetites suitably aroused, we then inhaled our raw courses: thinly-sliced fluke sashimi sprinkled with sesame seeds and chives, and a rosette of smoked salmon accompanied by a dollop of zesty lemon cream and bulgur risotto. The sashimi was lightly dressed with olive oil, reminiscent of the crudo at Esca (another favorite restaurant of mine).
I again resisted the temptation of another dinner roll, and our next course began: seafood for me and vegetarian for my companion. I enjoyed four scallop-stuffed ravioli in a rich tomato cream, while my companion’s dish was a surprisingly sweet maitake mushroom with Japanese green soybeans in a mild parsnip broth.
After relaxing over a glass of Pinot Noir, we started in on our entrees (fish for me and poultry for my companion). My sea bass was perfectly seared with deliciously crispy skin, and it rested on another extraordinary mushroom preparation: black trumpet mushrooms mashed into a tasty, root-vegetable-like paste. A slightly sweet port-wine reduction wonderfully complemented the richness of the bass and a few fingerling potatoes completed the dish. My companion raved about his poached chicken breast, served with roulades of dark meat with spinach and pine nuts in the center.
We were then served a bracing fruit-studded apple-wine gelee to ready our appetites for dessert. At this point I was almost full, but I always have room for chocolate, and this night was no exception to the rule. Two small domes of warm Valrhona chocolate cake were a perfect ending for me, and my companion wasted no time in polishing off his frozen coconut soufflé. (He wanted me to inform you that it reminded him of a frozen Toasted Almond bar.) Then, a plate of homemade almond brittle arrived.
Walking out the door, we again briefly enjoyed the fireplace, and soon we were off into the cold night.
March Restaurant: 405 E. 58th St., (212) 754-6272.
Thursday, March 11, 2004
Pasta Fights Back
With the popularity of the Atkins diet, you might think that pasta is on its way out. However, it's valiantly fighting back against obsolescence!
The spectacular Italian grocery store A. L. Bazzini sells a wondrous variety of artisanal pasta, including: Spinosi, Martelli (dried for 50 hours at a low temperature), Latini, Manicaretti Rustichella d'Abruzzo (extruded through hand-carved bronze dies), and chocolate egg tagliatelle produced by La Favorita Figh.
After choosing your favorite pasta shapes, check out the olive oil sale near the front door. Add a bottle to your shopping basket, and then rustle up an aglio olio at home. I would have done the same last night, but I was scheduled to meet a friend for a pasta dinner!
Selected Italian restaurants in New York are known for their homemade pasta, and Vice Versa is one of them. From the moment you see the steel-grey awning, you know this isn't just another Theatre District dive serving unappetizingly mushy spaghetti. No, Vice Versa takes pride in their sea bass ravioli, squid ink tagliolini and strozzapreti with duck ragout. My friend and I enjoyed plump pumpkin ravioli in a classic butter and sage sauce and a tangle of spaghettini with sweet crabmeat in a fresh tomato sauce accented with black olives. (Of course, my carbo-loading was not complete until I'd ordered the gooey warm chocolate cake with vanilla gelato. No matter how many times I see this cake on a dessert menu, I can never resist it.)
A. L. Bazzini Co, Inc., 339 Greenwich St., (212) 334-1280. Vice Versa, 325 W. 51st St., (212) 399-9291.
The spectacular Italian grocery store A. L. Bazzini sells a wondrous variety of artisanal pasta, including: Spinosi, Martelli (dried for 50 hours at a low temperature), Latini, Manicaretti Rustichella d'Abruzzo (extruded through hand-carved bronze dies), and chocolate egg tagliatelle produced by La Favorita Figh.
After choosing your favorite pasta shapes, check out the olive oil sale near the front door. Add a bottle to your shopping basket, and then rustle up an aglio olio at home. I would have done the same last night, but I was scheduled to meet a friend for a pasta dinner!
Selected Italian restaurants in New York are known for their homemade pasta, and Vice Versa is one of them. From the moment you see the steel-grey awning, you know this isn't just another Theatre District dive serving unappetizingly mushy spaghetti. No, Vice Versa takes pride in their sea bass ravioli, squid ink tagliolini and strozzapreti with duck ragout. My friend and I enjoyed plump pumpkin ravioli in a classic butter and sage sauce and a tangle of spaghettini with sweet crabmeat in a fresh tomato sauce accented with black olives. (Of course, my carbo-loading was not complete until I'd ordered the gooey warm chocolate cake with vanilla gelato. No matter how many times I see this cake on a dessert menu, I can never resist it.)
A. L. Bazzini Co, Inc., 339 Greenwich St., (212) 334-1280. Vice Versa, 325 W. 51st St., (212) 399-9291.
Tuesday, March 09, 2004
Chocolat Moderne
The month-long hot chocolate festival at City Bakery has come to a close. Fortunately, new additions to City Bakery's Chocolate Room fill the void: exotic chocolate bars from Chocolat Moderne. Last night I picked up several bars in flavors of Sesame Praline, Banana Courvoisier and Apricot Caramel. The latter oozes with sweet jam and is absolutely irresistible.
Chocolat Moderne, 27 West 20th St., (212) 229-4797. City Bakery, 3 W. 18th St. (212) 366-1414.
Chocolat Moderne, 27 West 20th St., (212) 229-4797. City Bakery, 3 W. 18th St. (212) 366-1414.
Saturday, February 21, 2004
Artisanal
To put it mildly, choosing a suitable restaurant for my family is always a challenge. One family member is allergic to onions, peas, scallions and chives. Another’s diet consists solely of Caesar salad, steak, hamburgers and French fries. As for me, I was always the child trying to order the most exotic item on the menu, only to be met with the retort, “No, you can’t order the alligator!”
If your family is similar to mine, you will find a culinary panacea in Artisanal. Still going strong after a few years, this fromage-focused bistro will please diners both picky and adventurous. Artisanal is home to a cave containing hundreds of lovingly cared-for cheeses, a mail-order wholesale and retail cheese business, and the Artisanal Cheese Center, which offers tempting classes like “Red Wine and Cheese Pairing.”
Last night, a basket of light-as-air gougeres was consumed immediately by my relatives, one of whom exclaimed with delight, "They taste like Cheez-Its!" We then split the fondue of the day (there are several fondues available, including Classic Swiss and Stilton with Sauternes). Billed as the “100-cheese fondue,” it was actually comprised of 38 cheeses, the most prominent of which was Cheddar. The velvety, tangy dip was accented with chives and truffle oil and served with bread cubes. We also ordered the crudite for dipping, which included gherkins, carrots, and radishes. (If you want to make more of a meal out of your fondue, you can order several baigneuses such fingerling potatoes, cracked egg and air-dried beef.)
After finishing every last bite of the fondue, we sipped an excellent Sleepy Hollow Pinot Noir which had been recommended by the waiter. Then it was time for the entrees! Feeling decadent, I opted for the “fish and frites”: beer-battered catfish with caraway slaw, French fries and oniony Tartar sauce. My relatives ordered the buttery-tender filet mignon and “chicken cooked under a brick” with haricots verts and potatoes. The compression during cooking sealed all the juices inside the bird.
Dessert was a warm chocolate tart with caramel coulis and homemade orange ice cream with candied orange zest, and profiteroles with flasks of chocolate syrup and whipped cream. Although the chocolate fondue sounded tantalizing, I will have to save it for my next visit. Maybe my relatives will join me!
Artisanal, 2 Park Ave, (212) 725-8585.
If your family is similar to mine, you will find a culinary panacea in Artisanal. Still going strong after a few years, this fromage-focused bistro will please diners both picky and adventurous. Artisanal is home to a cave containing hundreds of lovingly cared-for cheeses, a mail-order wholesale and retail cheese business, and the Artisanal Cheese Center, which offers tempting classes like “Red Wine and Cheese Pairing.”
Last night, a basket of light-as-air gougeres was consumed immediately by my relatives, one of whom exclaimed with delight, "They taste like Cheez-Its!" We then split the fondue of the day (there are several fondues available, including Classic Swiss and Stilton with Sauternes). Billed as the “100-cheese fondue,” it was actually comprised of 38 cheeses, the most prominent of which was Cheddar. The velvety, tangy dip was accented with chives and truffle oil and served with bread cubes. We also ordered the crudite for dipping, which included gherkins, carrots, and radishes. (If you want to make more of a meal out of your fondue, you can order several baigneuses such fingerling potatoes, cracked egg and air-dried beef.)
After finishing every last bite of the fondue, we sipped an excellent Sleepy Hollow Pinot Noir which had been recommended by the waiter. Then it was time for the entrees! Feeling decadent, I opted for the “fish and frites”: beer-battered catfish with caraway slaw, French fries and oniony Tartar sauce. My relatives ordered the buttery-tender filet mignon and “chicken cooked under a brick” with haricots verts and potatoes. The compression during cooking sealed all the juices inside the bird.
Dessert was a warm chocolate tart with caramel coulis and homemade orange ice cream with candied orange zest, and profiteroles with flasks of chocolate syrup and whipped cream. Although the chocolate fondue sounded tantalizing, I will have to save it for my next visit. Maybe my relatives will join me!
Artisanal, 2 Park Ave, (212) 725-8585.
Tuesday, February 10, 2004
Christopher Norman Chocolates
"I used to be a very little girl before I started working here," the cashier said ruefully. Looking at the top shelf of oversized chocolates, I wondered which one she'd been succumbing to. Was it the peanut-crusted chocolate candy apple on a lollipop stick, or the marbled dark and white chocolate pear with a filling of pear-scented whipped cream? Had she been snacking on the dark chocolate champagne pyramids, or the wild cherry hearts? Then again, there was that intriguing white chocolate "cappuccino" served on a chocolate saucer.
I wanted to find out for myself which chocolate was the most irresistible, so I ordered all of the above (plus a peanut butter cup). Although I wasn't "a very little girl" before I started eating Christopher Norman Chocolates, I was less full.
Christopher Norman Chocolates, Ltd: 60 New St., (212) 402-1243.
I wanted to find out for myself which chocolate was the most irresistible, so I ordered all of the above (plus a peanut butter cup). Although I wasn't "a very little girl" before I started eating Christopher Norman Chocolates, I was less full.
Christopher Norman Chocolates, Ltd: 60 New St., (212) 402-1243.
Tuesday, February 03, 2004
Martine's Chocolates
Valentine's Day is fast approaching, and if you want to ingratiate yourself with a chocoholic, I recommend that you visit Martine's Chocolates. Tucked away on the 6th floor of Bloomingdale's, Martine's is a delightful little shop at which you can watch fresh cream truffles take form before your very eyes. The truffle is a shell of fine chocolate, filled with marzipan mousse, double chocolate truffle or hazelnut praline, as well as a special layer of rich cream. One word of caution: after a box of Martine's truffles, your date will never accept the pre-packaged variety again!
Martine's Chocolates: 1000 3rd Ave., 6th Floor, (212) 705-2347.
Martine's Chocolates: 1000 3rd Ave., 6th Floor, (212) 705-2347.
Friday, January 23, 2004
L'Ulivo and Savoia
I have a soft spot for small, casual Italian restaurants with wood-burning ovens. If you share this fondness, I heartily recommend L'Ulivo Focacceria in SoHo. L'Ulivo's complementary basket of herb-sprinkled focaccia is so inviting that you may find yourself filling up fast before the meal even begins. If you can, try to save some room for the wonderful pizzas. Tonight, after a refreshing tricolor salad drizzled with extra-virgin olive oil and Modena balsamic vinegar, I indulged in the focaccia tartufata. This incredibly satisfying pizza is layered with thinly-sliced fresh mozzarella, mushrooms and sheets of Parmesan. The thin, crisp crust is not a mere vehicle for the excellent toppings; it's so tasty that I could eat it plain. There are also many pasta options on the menu, including homemade lasagne and orecchiette in a spicy broccoli rabe puree. This evening, the charming waiter sensed my enthusiasm and brought over a free tiramisu. L'Ulivo is truly a place after my own heart!
When I visit Cobble Hill, I greatly enjoy Savoia. The host always has the confident, friendly demeanor of someone who knows that the customers are pleased. I most certainly am, especially when eating the soul-satisfying rigatoni alla Norma: a generous bowl of al dente pasta tubes and cubes of eggplant in a flavorful tomato sauce, topped with shredded salty ricotta. I also like to watch the chef at work on his "classic" and "new style" pizzas. For the traditionalist, there are four-cheese and marinara pies; for the more adventurous diner, there's a pear, walnut and Gorgonzola pizza!
L'Ulivo Focacceria: 184 Spring Street, (212) 343-1445. Savoia: 277 Smith St., Brooklyn, (718) 797-2727.
When I visit Cobble Hill, I greatly enjoy Savoia. The host always has the confident, friendly demeanor of someone who knows that the customers are pleased. I most certainly am, especially when eating the soul-satisfying rigatoni alla Norma: a generous bowl of al dente pasta tubes and cubes of eggplant in a flavorful tomato sauce, topped with shredded salty ricotta. I also like to watch the chef at work on his "classic" and "new style" pizzas. For the traditionalist, there are four-cheese and marinara pies; for the more adventurous diner, there's a pear, walnut and Gorgonzola pizza!
L'Ulivo Focacceria: 184 Spring Street, (212) 343-1445. Savoia: 277 Smith St., Brooklyn, (718) 797-2727.
Friday, January 09, 2004
Noodle Soup
This brutal weather calls for a big bowl of piping hot noodle soup! When confronted with this particular craving, I often find myself at Ony (CLOSED AS OF 11/26/06), a West Village ramen house. At Ony you may customize your soup by adding extras such as chicken, tofu and kimchi. You can even choose your own broth (I like the spicy miso). There's also a creative sushi menu; I recommend any of the maki that contain yuzu kosho sauce, a peppery lemon mayonnaise.
Last night, I accidentally boarded a W train on the way home. Shivering on the elevated subway platform, I decided to turn my mistake into an opportunity to eat noodle soup! I simply changed to the 7 train at Queensboro Plaza, got off at Roosevelt, and headed over to Tibetan Yak. This cozy spot specializes in handrolled noodles, several preparations of which involve very satisfying soups. Tsel gutse ritu is a giant bowl of bok choy, mushrooms and rolled pasta soup, and thinthuk features flat pasta, beef and radish. And for dessert, there's the Tibetan version of noodle pudding: bhatsa markhu.
Stay warm!
Ony: 357 6th Ave., (212) 414-8429. Tibetan Yak Restaurant: 72-20 Roosevelt Ave., Queens, (718) 779-1119.
Last night, I accidentally boarded a W train on the way home. Shivering on the elevated subway platform, I decided to turn my mistake into an opportunity to eat noodle soup! I simply changed to the 7 train at Queensboro Plaza, got off at Roosevelt, and headed over to Tibetan Yak. This cozy spot specializes in handrolled noodles, several preparations of which involve very satisfying soups. Tsel gutse ritu is a giant bowl of bok choy, mushrooms and rolled pasta soup, and thinthuk features flat pasta, beef and radish. And for dessert, there's the Tibetan version of noodle pudding: bhatsa markhu.
Stay warm!
Ony: 357 6th Ave., (212) 414-8429. Tibetan Yak Restaurant: 72-20 Roosevelt Ave., Queens, (718) 779-1119.
Monday, January 05, 2004
Crimes of Nutrition
According to today's Wall Street Journal, a health-food executive will be imprisoned for selling low-fat doughnuts that are too delicious. Suspicious customers have complained to the Food and Drug Administration, and sure enough, there are 18 grams of fat in each doughnut instead of the advertised 3 grams.
This news item is similar to a recent New York Times article about CremaLita, a chain that falsely claims to serve diet ice cream.
To my sugar-addled mind, the real criminal activity is the ongoing research into how desserts can be made less tasty. A fitting punishment would be a day-trip to the Doughnut Plant and Il Laboratorio Del Gelato.
This news item is similar to a recent New York Times article about CremaLita, a chain that falsely claims to serve diet ice cream.
To my sugar-addled mind, the real criminal activity is the ongoing research into how desserts can be made less tasty. A fitting punishment would be a day-trip to the Doughnut Plant and Il Laboratorio Del Gelato.
Tuesday, December 23, 2003
Heaven Is A Cinnamon Roll
Whenever I'm in Union Square, City Bakery sucks me in like a giant magnet. Last night, however, an equally strong pull was exerted by 'wichcraft. I stopped in for a favorite sandwich: tangy melted Fontina on crispy white toast with black mushrooms and a touch of white truffle oil. While casting a quick glance over the counter, I spied a pile of cinnamon rolls. It didn't cross my mind to order one (I usually finish my meals with something of a chocolate nature), but the handsome cashier said those magic words: "Would you like me to heat one up?"
I was quite unprepared for the sheer pleasure I was in for! As I pulled apart the layers of warm, eggy brioche, I encountered the most luscious swirl of caramelized cinnamon sugar. It was as though the entire universe of deliciousness was concentrated into one palm-sized pastry.
Lost in sweet delirium, I was fortunately able to remember a scoop imparted to me by the cashier: a new 'wichcraft is planned for the TriBeCa area!
'wichcraft: 49 East 19th Street, (212) 780-0577.
I was quite unprepared for the sheer pleasure I was in for! As I pulled apart the layers of warm, eggy brioche, I encountered the most luscious swirl of caramelized cinnamon sugar. It was as though the entire universe of deliciousness was concentrated into one palm-sized pastry.
Lost in sweet delirium, I was fortunately able to remember a scoop imparted to me by the cashier: a new 'wichcraft is planned for the TriBeCa area!
'wichcraft: 49 East 19th Street, (212) 780-0577.
A Birthday To Remember
On Friday, I received an unexpected box from Airborne Express. I opened it to find this triple chocolate cake! (Thanks, Mom.)
Wednesday, December 17, 2003
Farewell, But Not Goodbye
After seven food-filled years in Brooklyn, I am moving to Queens. I salivate at the thought of all the different cuisines in the borough, and the lower housing prices will provide me with more disposable income with which to dine out! Stay tuned for reports from bustling Jackson Heights and artsy Astoria. (Of course, I will still be doing plenty of eating in Manhattan and Brooklyn.) Here is my final report as a Brooklynite.
During the inclement weather, I have enjoyed ordering delivery from Downtown Atlantic. A bag full of goodies from this local gem turns a drafty brownstone into a cozy dining nook. If you order in the morning, there's a frittata of the day. In the evening, there's an earthy roasted beet and Roquefort salad, crab cakes with remoulade, several pasta dishes (my favorite is the shrimp and truffle oil fettucini), Asian chicken salad, and terrific sandwiches (I like the fried catfish). I am also especially fond of a frequently recurring special: the octopus salad dressed with lemon and olive oil.
Downtown Atlantic is justifiably proud of their fresh baked goods. When you visit the restaurant, there are all kinds of wonderful aromas emanating from the downstairs ovens. I can never restrain myself from ordering several cookies and muffins, and I love the crumbly, buttery apple tart. I think I'll be haunting my old neighborhood!
Downtown Atlantic: 364 Atlantic Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 852-9945.
During the inclement weather, I have enjoyed ordering delivery from Downtown Atlantic. A bag full of goodies from this local gem turns a drafty brownstone into a cozy dining nook. If you order in the morning, there's a frittata of the day. In the evening, there's an earthy roasted beet and Roquefort salad, crab cakes with remoulade, several pasta dishes (my favorite is the shrimp and truffle oil fettucini), Asian chicken salad, and terrific sandwiches (I like the fried catfish). I am also especially fond of a frequently recurring special: the octopus salad dressed with lemon and olive oil.
Downtown Atlantic is justifiably proud of their fresh baked goods. When you visit the restaurant, there are all kinds of wonderful aromas emanating from the downstairs ovens. I can never restrain myself from ordering several cookies and muffins, and I love the crumbly, buttery apple tart. I think I'll be haunting my old neighborhood!
Downtown Atlantic: 364 Atlantic Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 852-9945.
Thursday, December 04, 2003
Kapadokya
It was to be a long day at the Brooklyn Supreme Court. This was the first time I'd ever been summoned for jury duty; unfortunately, I'd neglected to bring enough snacks. Right when I was sure that the entire courtroom could hear my stomach growling, I was called to a jury selection room for a civil case.
Ironically enough, the case involved a restaurant (which shall remain nameless). As the endless series of voir dires was conducted, I daydreamed about appetizers. Finally, it was one o'clock: lunch hour!
Brooklyn Heights' Montague Street is not known for fine dining. However, I was happy to spend my hour of freedom at charming Kapadokya. This homey Turkish restaurant offers a wealth of selections for carnivores and vegetarians alike, and the $7.95 two-course lunch special is a great value. I began with a bowl of lentil soup into which I dunked homemade pita, then enjoyed a hearty vegetable casserole with rice. The waitress was very friendly; we discussed how Greek and Turkish desserts are so similar (the Turkish kadayif, shredded wheat with pistachios and honey, is the equivalent of the Greek kadaifi).
I intend to return to try Kapadokya's version of my favorite Turkish appetizers: feta-stuffed filo "cigars" and cacik (garlicky cucumbers in yogurt).
For those of you who were wondering, I was dismissed from the jury pool; I'm hopelessly biased as far as restaurants are concerned.
Kapadokya: 142 Montague Street, 2nd. Floor, Brooklyn. (718) 875-2211.
Ironically enough, the case involved a restaurant (which shall remain nameless). As the endless series of voir dires was conducted, I daydreamed about appetizers. Finally, it was one o'clock: lunch hour!
Brooklyn Heights' Montague Street is not known for fine dining. However, I was happy to spend my hour of freedom at charming Kapadokya. This homey Turkish restaurant offers a wealth of selections for carnivores and vegetarians alike, and the $7.95 two-course lunch special is a great value. I began with a bowl of lentil soup into which I dunked homemade pita, then enjoyed a hearty vegetable casserole with rice. The waitress was very friendly; we discussed how Greek and Turkish desserts are so similar (the Turkish kadayif, shredded wheat with pistachios and honey, is the equivalent of the Greek kadaifi).
I intend to return to try Kapadokya's version of my favorite Turkish appetizers: feta-stuffed filo "cigars" and cacik (garlicky cucumbers in yogurt).
For those of you who were wondering, I was dismissed from the jury pool; I'm hopelessly biased as far as restaurants are concerned.
Kapadokya: 142 Montague Street, 2nd. Floor, Brooklyn. (718) 875-2211.
Tuesday, November 25, 2003
Thanksgiving Dinner
If you're not dining out on Thanksgiving, yet you still haven't planned your own menu, I recommend taking home a wonderfully complete holiday feast from City Bakery. Start the meal with a mesclun salad, then move on to an organic turkey with your choice of mushroom or cornbread stuffing. Gingered sweet potatoes, butternut squash, creamed spinach and buttermilk horseradish mashed potatoes will provide a lovely accompaniment for your bird. Round out the meal with Indian apple pie, dark chocolate cheesecake, and, of course, City Bakery's legendary pumpkin pie. Have a terrific holiday!
City Bakery: 3 W. 18th St., (212) 366-1414.
City Bakery: 3 W. 18th St., (212) 366-1414.
Sunday, November 23, 2003
The Blossoming of Brooklyn's 5th Avenue: Belleville and Red Cafe
It's no wonder that so many people are moving to Park Slope, with new restaurants like Belleville and Red Cafe opening almost daily. This weekend, I had the delightful opportunity to visit both hotspots.
Red Cafe, a hospitable father-son operation, offers a dynamite assortment of sandwiches as well as a small menu of entrees. I thoroughly enjoyed the spice-crusted salmon sandwich with fried and sauteed leeks, lemony black olive tapenade, and hard-boiled eggs. My friends devoured their cheeseburgers with Stilton, and we all split the irresistible buttery-crusted three-berry pie, which was slightly warmed and topped with two scoops of vanilla-bean ice cream.
If you can't secure a table at the tiny Red Cafe, walk over to Belleville, an inviting bistro at 5th Street and 5th Avenue. Park Slopers waited for months for this place to materialize; many among us wondered if the endless renovations would result in an actual restaurant. What a wonderful addition it is to the neighborhood! Last night Belleville celebrated the arrival of the new Beaujolais with a light and fruity version. I drank a toast to the Parisian salad of shredded carrots, haricots verts, hard-boiled eggs, white beans, cauliflower and aioli, the tuna nicoise, the classic Gruyere fondue, scrumptious French onion soup, and the warm chocolate torte and tart with thinly-sliced apples. Whew!
Red Cafe: 78 Fifth Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 789-1100. Belleville: 330 Fifth St., Brooklyn, (718) 832-9777.
Red Cafe, a hospitable father-son operation, offers a dynamite assortment of sandwiches as well as a small menu of entrees. I thoroughly enjoyed the spice-crusted salmon sandwich with fried and sauteed leeks, lemony black olive tapenade, and hard-boiled eggs. My friends devoured their cheeseburgers with Stilton, and we all split the irresistible buttery-crusted three-berry pie, which was slightly warmed and topped with two scoops of vanilla-bean ice cream.
If you can't secure a table at the tiny Red Cafe, walk over to Belleville, an inviting bistro at 5th Street and 5th Avenue. Park Slopers waited for months for this place to materialize; many among us wondered if the endless renovations would result in an actual restaurant. What a wonderful addition it is to the neighborhood! Last night Belleville celebrated the arrival of the new Beaujolais with a light and fruity version. I drank a toast to the Parisian salad of shredded carrots, haricots verts, hard-boiled eggs, white beans, cauliflower and aioli, the tuna nicoise, the classic Gruyere fondue, scrumptious French onion soup, and the warm chocolate torte and tart with thinly-sliced apples. Whew!
Red Cafe: 78 Fifth Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 789-1100. Belleville: 330 Fifth St., Brooklyn, (718) 832-9777.
Thursday, November 13, 2003
30,000 Square Feet Of Chocolate
Is this a dream? No, it's sweet reality... today through Sunday, the NYC Chocolate Show will take place at the Metropolitan Pavilion (125 W. 18th Street at 6th Ave.). See you there!
Saturday, November 08, 2003
A Chocolate A Day...
Ki Won Lee, a South Korean researcher, has shown that hot cocoa contains more heart-healthy antioxidants than green tea or even red wine. I hope Lee's findings will convince my physician to write me a prescription for the hot chocolate souffle at Eleven Madison Park. This giant edible cauldron of bubbling chocolate is served with a plate of small chocolate cherry cakes and numerous scoops of chocolate, vanilla and hazelnut ice cream. (If you want to conserve your appetite in order to enjoy this dessert, you will have to moderate your consumption of the addictive cheese puffs at the beginning of the meal. I did not.)
Eleven Madison Park: 11 Madison Ave., (212) 889-0905.
Eleven Madison Park: 11 Madison Ave., (212) 889-0905.
Thursday, October 30, 2003
Halloween Treats at Jacques Torres
According to the National Confectioners Association, the most popular Halloween treat is the Snickers bar. Although I'm not a fan of that particular candy, I am most fond of the chocolate hazelnut pralines at Jacques Torres! Rich, silky chocolate enrobes a crunchy hazelnut paste center, resulting in a mouthful of sweet pleasure. Unfortunately, the limited-edition chocolate praline bars are no longer in production; call up and demand their return!
Jacques Torres: 66 Water St., Brooklyn, (718) 875-9772.
Jacques Torres: 66 Water St., Brooklyn, (718) 875-9772.
Monday, October 20, 2003
Trends In Chocolate
It's never too early to start planning for The Chocolate Show! For those of you who are still unfamiliar with this annual event, it's the chocoholic's equivalent of the Super Bowl. I am particularly excited about the "New Taste Trends in Chocolate" lecture which will be given by Chocophile.com editor Clay Gordon on Nov. 13th at 5 p.m.
Recently, I've done my own informal research into chocolate, and I've noticed two opposing trends: the trend towards purity and the trend towards exotic innovation. In the first category is the single-bean phenomenon; chocolatiers from Valrhona to Guittard are marketing chocolates produced with cacao beans from specific locations. The descriptions of these chocolates often read like travel brochures, making me want to fly to "Western Venezuela, South of Lake Maracaibo" for a Sur Del Lago bar (Guittard) or Ghana for some Omanhene chocolate. The International Chocolate Company offers Mexican, Ecuadorian, and Ivorian single-bean bars.
Chocolate is also being paired with more exotic flavors for truly unique tasting experiences. Former pastry chef Eric Gererd has created a whole line of truffles with flavors like wasabi and curry. He has even pioneered a new assortment of chocolates for Brooklyn's own Bierkraft (a shop with 900 varieties of imported beers). These chocolates include flavors such as Abita Purple Haze, Remsten Winter Wheat, and Sierra Nevada Porter.
Some other delicious taste innovations are the Naga bar (sweet Indian curry powder, coconut flakes and Belgian milk chocolate) from Vosges and the Peruvian chocolates with caramel and prunes from Helena's Chocolatier (special thanks to California chocoholic Dana Colligan for this last recommendation).
I look forward to doing more research of this nature!
Recently, I've done my own informal research into chocolate, and I've noticed two opposing trends: the trend towards purity and the trend towards exotic innovation. In the first category is the single-bean phenomenon; chocolatiers from Valrhona to Guittard are marketing chocolates produced with cacao beans from specific locations. The descriptions of these chocolates often read like travel brochures, making me want to fly to "Western Venezuela, South of Lake Maracaibo" for a Sur Del Lago bar (Guittard) or Ghana for some Omanhene chocolate. The International Chocolate Company offers Mexican, Ecuadorian, and Ivorian single-bean bars.
Chocolate is also being paired with more exotic flavors for truly unique tasting experiences. Former pastry chef Eric Gererd has created a whole line of truffles with flavors like wasabi and curry. He has even pioneered a new assortment of chocolates for Brooklyn's own Bierkraft (a shop with 900 varieties of imported beers). These chocolates include flavors such as Abita Purple Haze, Remsten Winter Wheat, and Sierra Nevada Porter.
Some other delicious taste innovations are the Naga bar (sweet Indian curry powder, coconut flakes and Belgian milk chocolate) from Vosges and the Peruvian chocolates with caramel and prunes from Helena's Chocolatier (special thanks to California chocoholic Dana Colligan for this last recommendation).
I look forward to doing more research of this nature!
Saturday, October 18, 2003
NYC vs. Miami: Let The Best Entree Win!
This year, it turns out that foodies have as much invested in the World Series as do baseball fans.
Wednesday, October 15, 2003
Titan Foods
I now understand how the Titans earned their appellation; they probably lived on a luscious diet of deep-fried, honey-drenched pastries! I ballooned up to my own titanic proportions visiting Domna's Bakery at Titan Foods, a Greek supermarket in Astoria.
My shopping bags almost broke with the sheer weight of everything I had purchased. At Domna’s, I had loaded up on touloubakia, striated cylinders of sweet fried dough, and assorted soropiasta, delicious packages of filo wrapped around coconut, pistachio, and walnut fillings. I had also bought many jars of preserved fruit (kumquats, rose petals, candied citron, figs with cloves, sour cherries) to mix with creamy strained yogurt. There were bags of rusks, Greek cheeses, bottles of olive oil, some Cretan thyme honey, and a box of loucoumi souzouki, a jelled candy rolled in sesame seeds with walnuts inside. Grape leaves and quince paste completed my shopping list. Oh, and I forgot to mention the wonderful spinach feta pie.
Titan Foods: 25-56 31st St., Queens, (718) 626-7771.
My shopping bags almost broke with the sheer weight of everything I had purchased. At Domna’s, I had loaded up on touloubakia, striated cylinders of sweet fried dough, and assorted soropiasta, delicious packages of filo wrapped around coconut, pistachio, and walnut fillings. I had also bought many jars of preserved fruit (kumquats, rose petals, candied citron, figs with cloves, sour cherries) to mix with creamy strained yogurt. There were bags of rusks, Greek cheeses, bottles of olive oil, some Cretan thyme honey, and a box of loucoumi souzouki, a jelled candy rolled in sesame seeds with walnuts inside. Grape leaves and quince paste completed my shopping list. Oh, and I forgot to mention the wonderful spinach feta pie.
Titan Foods: 25-56 31st St., Queens, (718) 626-7771.
Thursday, October 09, 2003
Smorgas Chef
If you're starving for Swedish but don't have time for Aquavit, you'll be delighted at the recent opening of Smorgas Chef. This charming newcomer to Stone Street features the typical open-faced sandwiches of Sweden. A thick slice of sourdough can be topped with lobster, meatballs, shrimp, a codfish patty, or my choice: smoked salmon and scrambled eggs. You can also opt for a soup or salad, but whatever you do, leave room for a sweet vanilla waffle smeared with cloudberry jam!
Smorgas Chef: 53 Stone St., (212) 422-3503. Grand opening on Saturday!
Smorgas Chef: 53 Stone St., (212) 422-3503. Grand opening on Saturday!
Monday, September 29, 2003
Blue Sky Bakery
According to a report in Time Magazine, extra girth can have a calming effect on the brain! Perhaps that is why I feel so relaxed this afternoon; I just got back from some intensive waist-widening at the Blue Sky Bakery.
Blue Sky's offerings change daily at the whim of Nadezda, the Serbian-born pastry chef. Sometimes, Nadezda will feel like baking a traditional English apple pie. Other days find her experimenting with exotic variations on American staples, such as zucchini banana plum muffins or even pizza with ham and mangoes. Lately, to my great delight, Nadezda has felt inspired to serve up some delectable dishes from her native country: acak, a rice, dill and yogurt dish, and gibanica, a delicious filo, egg and feta quiche. I have never tasted a quiche quite like this; it is rich and airy at once with its many layers of buttered pastry and eggs.
I have already been to Blue Sky twice this weekend, and from now on, I intend to stop by at least hourly. Maybe I'll see you there.
Blue Sky Bakery: 53 5th Ave., Brooklyn. (718) 783-4123. Call to find out which goodies they have today!
Blue Sky's offerings change daily at the whim of Nadezda, the Serbian-born pastry chef. Sometimes, Nadezda will feel like baking a traditional English apple pie. Other days find her experimenting with exotic variations on American staples, such as zucchini banana plum muffins or even pizza with ham and mangoes. Lately, to my great delight, Nadezda has felt inspired to serve up some delectable dishes from her native country: acak, a rice, dill and yogurt dish, and gibanica, a delicious filo, egg and feta quiche. I have never tasted a quiche quite like this; it is rich and airy at once with its many layers of buttered pastry and eggs.
I have already been to Blue Sky twice this weekend, and from now on, I intend to stop by at least hourly. Maybe I'll see you there.
Blue Sky Bakery: 53 5th Ave., Brooklyn. (718) 783-4123. Call to find out which goodies they have today!
Friday, September 26, 2003
25 Dumplings For $4.50
My stomach has a mind of its own. It does not often heed my brain's suggestions to eat in moderation.
At Cafe Glechik in Brighton Beach, my stomach prevailed once again. This venerable Ukrainian cafe specializes in two kinds of dumplings: vareniki (half-moons stuffed with your choice of potato, cabbage, meat, sour cherries or farmer's cheese) and pelmeni, round dumplings filled with either chicken, veal or eggs and cheese. Amazingly, a big plate of 25 plump dumplings costs only $4.50-$7.50. I recommend the vareniki "Kuban" style, with mozzarella, dill and parsley.
(Other favorite dishes of mine at Cafe Glechik are the green borscht and the luxuriously oily smoked mackerel.)
Cafe Glechik: 3159 Coney Island Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 616-0494.
At Cafe Glechik in Brighton Beach, my stomach prevailed once again. This venerable Ukrainian cafe specializes in two kinds of dumplings: vareniki (half-moons stuffed with your choice of potato, cabbage, meat, sour cherries or farmer's cheese) and pelmeni, round dumplings filled with either chicken, veal or eggs and cheese. Amazingly, a big plate of 25 plump dumplings costs only $4.50-$7.50. I recommend the vareniki "Kuban" style, with mozzarella, dill and parsley.
(Other favorite dishes of mine at Cafe Glechik are the green borscht and the luxuriously oily smoked mackerel.)
Cafe Glechik: 3159 Coney Island Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 616-0494.
Friday, September 19, 2003
The German-American Parade 2003: Sept. 20
Tomorrow, they'll break out the bratwurst and serve up the sauerkraut at the annual German-American Parade. The Spaten and Warsteiner beer will be flowing, as will the Niche wine. After you've eaten a few Karl Ehmer brats, don't forget to stop by the Alma's Desserts tent.
In other Deutschland-related news, German biergarten Loreley will celebrate its
grand opening on Oct. 4 with live music, food tastings and 12 beers.
The German-American Steuben Parade 2003 will take place at 12 p.m. along 5th Ave. from 63rd St. to 86th St. Loreley is located at 7 Rivington St. (212) 253-7077.
In other Deutschland-related news, German biergarten Loreley will celebrate its
grand opening on Oct. 4 with live music, food tastings and 12 beers.
The German-American Steuben Parade 2003 will take place at 12 p.m. along 5th Ave. from 63rd St. to 86th St. Loreley is located at 7 Rivington St. (212) 253-7077.
Thursday, September 18, 2003
Alfama (CLOSED 8/09)
I've sorely missed O Padeiro, the Portuguese bakery formerly in Chelsea. Therefore, it was a comfort to discover Alfama, where I drowned my nostalgia in vinho verde. My favorite items at O Padeiro were the pasteis de nata (small round custard tarts with incredibly flaky crusts). Alfama sells them by the dozen and includes a few for free with the check!
Wednesday nights at Alfama are fado nights, so make a reservation to hear the traditional music of Portugal. Women draped in black sing passionately while the homesick Portuguese at the bar hum along to the beloved melodies.
The highlights of my meal were the cheese plate and the dessert (I couldn't quite adjust to the extreme saltiness of the bacalhau in my main course). My cheese choices included the evora (a hard cheese reminiscent of Manchego), a spicy paprika-dusted Toledo, and a creamy soft-ripened Serpa. Next time I will try the peppercorn-encrusted Ribafria and the Serra, one of Portugal's most famous cheeses.
Whenever I spy the word "trio" in a selection on the dessert menu, I always order that item in hopes that it will provide three times the pleasure of an ordinary dessert. The doces conventuais was comprised of three traditional Portuguese egg-based desserts: fio de ovos, or sweet angel hair; abade de priscos (rich dense egg-yolk flan) and the transcendent toucinho do ceu, a delicious egg cake made with Algarvean almonds.
I finished things off with a bica (espresso) and staggered off into the night.
Alfama: 551 Hudson St., (212) 645-2500.
Wednesday nights at Alfama are fado nights, so make a reservation to hear the traditional music of Portugal. Women draped in black sing passionately while the homesick Portuguese at the bar hum along to the beloved melodies.
The highlights of my meal were the cheese plate and the dessert (I couldn't quite adjust to the extreme saltiness of the bacalhau in my main course). My cheese choices included the evora (a hard cheese reminiscent of Manchego), a spicy paprika-dusted Toledo, and a creamy soft-ripened Serpa. Next time I will try the peppercorn-encrusted Ribafria and the Serra, one of Portugal's most famous cheeses.
Whenever I spy the word "trio" in a selection on the dessert menu, I always order that item in hopes that it will provide three times the pleasure of an ordinary dessert. The doces conventuais was comprised of three traditional Portuguese egg-based desserts: fio de ovos, or sweet angel hair; abade de priscos (rich dense egg-yolk flan) and the transcendent toucinho do ceu, a delicious egg cake made with Algarvean almonds.
I finished things off with a bica (espresso) and staggered off into the night.
Alfama: 551 Hudson St., (212) 645-2500.
Wednesday, September 17, 2003
Eat For Free In NYC
If you haven't got a ha'penny, there are still some dining options for you! This week at Cowgirl (519 Hudson St., 212-633-1133), free muffins (and milk) are being served to celebrate the start of the school season. But make sure you start up your engine early; the freebie is only available from 8:15-8:30 a.m.
Although there's no such thing as a free lunch, Village (62 West 9th St., 212-505-3355) lets its happy hour guests stuff themselves with tasty fried polenta. And if you're a downtown resident or employee, the free all-you-can-eat sushi extravaganza is still going on every Thursday night this month from 5-8 p.m. at Unity Restaurant (102 North End Ave., at Embassy Suites, 646-769-4200).
Although there's no such thing as a free lunch, Village (62 West 9th St., 212-505-3355) lets its happy hour guests stuff themselves with tasty fried polenta. And if you're a downtown resident or employee, the free all-you-can-eat sushi extravaganza is still going on every Thursday night this month from 5-8 p.m. at Unity Restaurant (102 North End Ave., at Embassy Suites, 646-769-4200).
Friday, September 12, 2003
Deluxe Food Market Inc.
Are you the most adventurous carnivore whom you know? Do your friends shake their heads in disbelief when you order the alligator special? Then I'd urge you to check out Chinatown's Deluxe Food Market Inc., where you will be amply rewarded in your search for mystery meats. The narrow, brightly lit shop is filled to the gills with preserved duck necks, salted duck tails, smoked duck feet, fresh squab, dried shrimp sausage and something called "chicken paste". (Your more conservative friends will enjoy the baby back ribs and fresh fish.) Look for the roasted ducks hanging in the window.
Deluxe Food Market Inc.: 79 Elizabeth St., (212) 925-5766.
Deluxe Food Market Inc.: 79 Elizabeth St., (212) 925-5766.
Wednesday, September 10, 2003
Bayard's Heirloom Tomato Festival -- Today!
Forgo that after-work cocktail today and head over to Stone Street downtown, where Bayard's Restaurant will host its first Heirloom Tomato Festival from 5 to 9 p.m. The tomatoes are all products of the chef's 50-acre organic farm. Bring your appetite; the festival will include a large buffet!
Saturday, September 06, 2003
Vacation On The Vineyard
On Martha's Vineyard this week, I happened to pick up this week's New Yorker, where I found my thoughts mirrored in Calvin Trillin's paean to classic and simple foods: "What Happened To Brie And Chablis?"
If you don't have a copy of the magazine, here is a snippet of Trillin's witty poem on page 69:
I also conducted my own informal fish-and-chips contest, involving Nancy's Harborview Restaurant, Seafood Shanty, The Wharf Restaurant and the winner: The Black Dog Tavern. The Black Dog's superior rendition was a plate of steaming moist fish in a crispy cornmeal crust over a heap of French fries, served with a side of homemade slaw.
When I recover from this week of excess, I will be ready to sample more of the Big Apple's glorious offerings! Stay tuned for new reviews.
If you don't have a copy of the magazine, here is a snippet of Trillin's witty poem on page 69:
"You miss, let's say, trout amandine?Now, I am as big a fan of squash blossoms and huitlacoche as anyone, but I still find comfort in old-fashioned recipes and simple ingredients. This week, I indulged in locally-caught smoked bluefish from Larsen's Fish Market of Menemsha, some downright fantastic brick-oven pizza at Lattanzi's, a breakfast of poached eggs over cayenne-spiked crab cakes at The Daggett House (Closed as of 2004), a wonderful linguine with garlicky white clam sauce at Chesca's (oh, the visceral pleasure of those impeccably fresh littlenecks), and rich creamy fudge at Murdick's (one variety made with Cape Cod cranberries).
Take hope from some menus I've seen:
Fondue has been spotted of late
And -- yes, to my near disbelief --
Tartare not from tuna but beef.
They all may return. Just you wait."
I also conducted my own informal fish-and-chips contest, involving Nancy's Harborview Restaurant, Seafood Shanty, The Wharf Restaurant and the winner: The Black Dog Tavern. The Black Dog's superior rendition was a plate of steaming moist fish in a crispy cornmeal crust over a heap of French fries, served with a side of homemade slaw.
When I recover from this week of excess, I will be ready to sample more of the Big Apple's glorious offerings! Stay tuned for new reviews.
Wednesday, August 27, 2003
Yet Another Reason To Eat Chocolate...
Here's some good news for chocoholics! After reading this article, I feel even more justified in my decision to order that large dark chocolate gelato at Cones (see below post).
Thursday, August 21, 2003
Cones
On Blackout Thursday, I was struck by a mortal craving for the dark chocolate gelato at Cones. Alas, I was in the thick of the crowd on the Brooklyn Bridge, inching towards home. I could only daydream about this cold, creamy treat made with three kinds of Dutch and German chocolate. I thought of Cones' fresh homemade whipped cream and visualized the glass case full of scrumptious flavors. Although my heart belongs to the dark chocolate gelato, I also enjoy the chocolate almond and dulce de leche varieties. Needless to say, when the lights came back on, I made a beeline for Cones.
Cones: 272 Bleecker St., (212) 414-1795. Open till 1 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays!
Cones: 272 Bleecker St., (212) 414-1795. Open till 1 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays!
Thursday, August 14, 2003
Quartino
Most of the mahogany-paneled restaurants downtown are billed as having been open since 1600, and they specialize in giant steaks seemingly aged since then. Therefore, it is refreshing to walk into the high-ceilinged, airy Quartino, a Ligurian restaurant tucked away below the Brooklyn Bridge exit ramp. I never expected to find such an oasis of charm just one block away from South Street!
Quartino bottles its own wine, makes its own pasta, and buys fresh fish from the Seaport every day. Chef Ivo Rossi is passionate about his peppery Ligurian olive oil and his organic crusty bread. I ate so much of this bread today that I worried about finishing my entrée. No matter, I inhaled the al dente fettucini with sweet cherry tomatoes, strips of basil and melted chunks of mozzarella in a split second. (Other pastas on the menu include vegetable ravioli in walnut sauce and pappardelle al pesto.) If you want something lighter, there are panini, pizzas and a salad of Sicilian tuna, string beans and potatoes. (Of course, if you want something heavier, by all means order the moist bittersweet chocolate cake!)
There have been so many times when I've unsuccessfully roamed the Seaport in search of something yummy. From now on, I'll head straight over to the corner of Peck Slip and Water Street!
Quartino: 21 Peck Slip, (212) 349-4433. Look for the umbrellas.
Quartino bottles its own wine, makes its own pasta, and buys fresh fish from the Seaport every day. Chef Ivo Rossi is passionate about his peppery Ligurian olive oil and his organic crusty bread. I ate so much of this bread today that I worried about finishing my entrée. No matter, I inhaled the al dente fettucini with sweet cherry tomatoes, strips of basil and melted chunks of mozzarella in a split second. (Other pastas on the menu include vegetable ravioli in walnut sauce and pappardelle al pesto.) If you want something lighter, there are panini, pizzas and a salad of Sicilian tuna, string beans and potatoes. (Of course, if you want something heavier, by all means order the moist bittersweet chocolate cake!)
There have been so many times when I've unsuccessfully roamed the Seaport in search of something yummy. From now on, I'll head straight over to the corner of Peck Slip and Water Street!
Quartino: 21 Peck Slip, (212) 349-4433. Look for the umbrellas.
Saturday, August 09, 2003
An Exquisite Evening: Dinner at Sushi Yasuda, Dessert at ChikaLicious Dessert Bar
I wish every night could be as wonderful as this one. Tonight, my companion and I feasted on innumerable varieties of fish at Sushi Yasuda, then continued the feast with a three-course dessert at ChikaLicious Dessert Bar.
Sushi Yasuda, named for its chef, is a shrine to the art of sushi. The sushi menu is categorized by the type of fish. There are five kinds of eel and seven cuts of tuna alone! Every night, Chef Yasuda circles his personal recommendations on the a la carte menu.
We began with a couple of intriguing seafood appetizers that we hadn't seen elsewhere: chunks of fried tuna in a light starchy batter, and flash-fried eel backbones. The latter were vaguely reminiscent of cracklings and had that same addictive property. We then tried some of the special fish of the evening: charred, sweet barbecued white eel, medium-fatty tuna that almost fell apart with tenderness, and wild salmon roe that were deliciously salty and fresh. Some other establishments serve pre-packaged eel and sugary roe; it is difficult not to be spoiled by the high quality at Sushi Yasuda.
Although some diners opt for the omakase (chef's choice), Sushi Yasuda also lets the diner choose the fish for his sushi or sashimi dinner. I like rich, oily fish, so I ordered mackerel, salmon, Spanish mackerel, kampachi (a type of yellowtail) and butterfish. Five piles of heaven!
After a mug of brown tea, it was time to cab it over to the East Village for dessert at ChikaLicious Dessert Bar, which opened just two weeks ago.
ChikaLicious is like your best friend's kitchen, if your best friend just happens to be a gourmet chef. As you sit expectantly at the marble countertop, you can watch Chef Chika zest a lemon over a bowl of slivered almonds in preparation for her delicious almond florentines. I was so fascinated by her activity that it took me a second to focus on the amuse bouche: a spoonful of brown sugar panna cotta marked with a roasted pistachio. A second treat soon appeared: a glass of yogurt sorbet with kiwi slices soaked in a sweet lavender syrup. The sugar focused my concentration, and I realized that I needed to try the chocolate baba au rhum with whipped cream and strawberry salad. It was impossible to resist the sight of all those small chocolate puffed cakes! The warm chocolate tart called to my companion. Everything was so delicious that it took us about two minutes to devour it all. But dessert was not yet over! A plate of beautiful petits fours soon arrived: homemade coconut marshmallows, chocolate basil truffles, and the afore-mentioned almond florentines. I think I'll go back tomorrow.
Sushi Yasuda: 204 E. 43rd St., (212) 972-1001 . Chikalicious Dessert Bar: 203 E. 10th St., (212) 995-9511.
Sushi Yasuda, named for its chef, is a shrine to the art of sushi. The sushi menu is categorized by the type of fish. There are five kinds of eel and seven cuts of tuna alone! Every night, Chef Yasuda circles his personal recommendations on the a la carte menu.
We began with a couple of intriguing seafood appetizers that we hadn't seen elsewhere: chunks of fried tuna in a light starchy batter, and flash-fried eel backbones. The latter were vaguely reminiscent of cracklings and had that same addictive property. We then tried some of the special fish of the evening: charred, sweet barbecued white eel, medium-fatty tuna that almost fell apart with tenderness, and wild salmon roe that were deliciously salty and fresh. Some other establishments serve pre-packaged eel and sugary roe; it is difficult not to be spoiled by the high quality at Sushi Yasuda.
Although some diners opt for the omakase (chef's choice), Sushi Yasuda also lets the diner choose the fish for his sushi or sashimi dinner. I like rich, oily fish, so I ordered mackerel, salmon, Spanish mackerel, kampachi (a type of yellowtail) and butterfish. Five piles of heaven!
After a mug of brown tea, it was time to cab it over to the East Village for dessert at ChikaLicious Dessert Bar, which opened just two weeks ago.
ChikaLicious is like your best friend's kitchen, if your best friend just happens to be a gourmet chef. As you sit expectantly at the marble countertop, you can watch Chef Chika zest a lemon over a bowl of slivered almonds in preparation for her delicious almond florentines. I was so fascinated by her activity that it took me a second to focus on the amuse bouche: a spoonful of brown sugar panna cotta marked with a roasted pistachio. A second treat soon appeared: a glass of yogurt sorbet with kiwi slices soaked in a sweet lavender syrup. The sugar focused my concentration, and I realized that I needed to try the chocolate baba au rhum with whipped cream and strawberry salad. It was impossible to resist the sight of all those small chocolate puffed cakes! The warm chocolate tart called to my companion. Everything was so delicious that it took us about two minutes to devour it all. But dessert was not yet over! A plate of beautiful petits fours soon arrived: homemade coconut marshmallows, chocolate basil truffles, and the afore-mentioned almond florentines. I think I'll go back tomorrow.
Sushi Yasuda: 204 E. 43rd St., (212) 972-1001 . Chikalicious Dessert Bar: 203 E. 10th St., (212) 995-9511.
Saturday, August 02, 2003
New York's Most Decadent Sandwich
You are probably thinking of the corned beef at Katz's Deli. Instead, try to picture two thick slices of grilled chocolate bread oozing with melted Belgian chocolate chips, chocolate syrup and Nutella. Add banana slices, whipped cream and raspberries to the image. Where can you find this strange, yet wonderful concoction? At the Museum Of Natural History's temporary "Chocolate Cafe". Make sure to get there by the end of August!
Chocolate Cafe: American Museum of Natural History, Central Park West and 79th St., (212) 769-5000.
Chocolate Cafe: American Museum of Natural History, Central Park West and 79th St., (212) 769-5000.
Tuesday, July 29, 2003
Klatch (CLOSED 4/09)
With great fanfare, my afternoon sweets craving announced its arrival. For the life of me, I could not decide whether I wanted a coconut doughnut from the Doughnut Plant or an orange brioche from the Balthazar Bakery. I calculated the walking distance to both places; a more difficult calculation was the relative strength of each desire. Fortunately, due to the recent opening of Klatch, I didn't need to make a choice! Only four months old, this adorable little coffee bar offers the best of both worlds: a selection of the Doughnut Plant's superlative handmade doughnuts and Balthazar's croissants, cookies and scones. I recommend accompanying all of this with a mug of Klatch's wonderful dark roast coffee, which is made with Porto Rico Importing Co. beans.
Klatch: 9-11 Maiden Lane, (212) 227-7276.
Klatch: 9-11 Maiden Lane, (212) 227-7276.
Monday, July 28, 2003
National Eel Day
The Japanese holiday which honors the eel fell on July 26 this year. The rich, tasty fish is supposed to revitalize you during the hot summer. For those of you who forgot to celebrate on Saturday, some Japanese restaurants in NYC are offering a special eel lunch today. Chikubu (CLOSED as of 4/07) will serve its annual $4.50 unagi lunch special (you may have to wait in line). Ise is offering a delicious double portion of eel over rice; finish one eel and a layer of rice only to discover another eel underneath!
Chikubu: 12 E. 44th St., (212) 818-0715. Ise: 56 Pine St., (212) 785-7660.
Chikubu: 12 E. 44th St., (212) 818-0715. Ise: 56 Pine St., (212) 785-7660.
Tuesday, July 22, 2003
Nana
Monday is a dark day for sushi lovers in Park Slope. Blue Ribbon Sushi is closed, the door that leads to Gingko Leaf's Japanese garden paradise is locked (Closed as of 2004), and Geido's sushi bar is empty of rollicking patrons sharing bottles of Kirin. Last night, my friend and I wandered down 7th Avenue, mournfully listing options that were unavailable to us.
In frustration, my friend suggested getting Italian food. At that moment, a light went on in my head in the shape of the neon sign at Nana on 5th Avenue. I vaguely remembered appreciating the grilled salmon at this stylish pan-Asian, but I'd always satisfied my sushi cravings elsewhere. However, since there is nothing so uncomfortable as an unsatisfied longing for tuna sashimi, we decided to give Nana a try.
The yellowtail ceviche appetizer was a good omen: a colorful confetti of julienned red onions, peppers and carrots and small pieces of fish in a light soy vinaigrette. Well-salted edamame soon followed, and then it was time for the sashimi! My platter was a generous assortment of about 20 pieces of octopus, yellowtail, tuna, salmon, snapper, and scallop. I breathed a sigh of relief as the sushi beast was (temporarily) kept at bay.
Nana: 155 Fifth Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 230-3749.
In frustration, my friend suggested getting Italian food. At that moment, a light went on in my head in the shape of the neon sign at Nana on 5th Avenue. I vaguely remembered appreciating the grilled salmon at this stylish pan-Asian, but I'd always satisfied my sushi cravings elsewhere. However, since there is nothing so uncomfortable as an unsatisfied longing for tuna sashimi, we decided to give Nana a try.
The yellowtail ceviche appetizer was a good omen: a colorful confetti of julienned red onions, peppers and carrots and small pieces of fish in a light soy vinaigrette. Well-salted edamame soon followed, and then it was time for the sashimi! My platter was a generous assortment of about 20 pieces of octopus, yellowtail, tuna, salmon, snapper, and scallop. I breathed a sigh of relief as the sushi beast was (temporarily) kept at bay.
Nana: 155 Fifth Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 230-3749.
Monday, July 21, 2003
Raw New York
Every so often, interesting requests randomly appear in the SalliVates.com mailbox. Recently, I've been asked to locate "yogurt pucks", to procure a list of sea salt distributors, and to go on a date. Although I haven't been able to fulfill these particular requests, I am about to gladden the heart of a California reader. Her E-mail of last week was so intriguing that I felt compelled to rise to her challenge:
First, I walked over to Eat Raw, a store which trumpets its cause right in the name. In addition to offering natural skin care products, Eat Raw sells crackers, cookies, nut butters, dried fruit and walnut-tahini "truffles". Unfortunately, I found the onion "Essene" bread and apple crunch bars very difficult to chew. I had better luck with the "Raweos", which tasted more like macaroons than Oreos (and that's a good thing).
Next, I took the F train to the East Village and strode into Live Live, where the proprietor was astonishingly thin! Looking at him, I immediately craved a huge plate of fettucini alfredo, but I squelched the urge (I was on a mission, remember) and bought a $6 package of "mac & cheese" instead. This concoction was a bar of macadamia nuts, kale, and red pepper; disturbingly, it was somewhat reminiscent of macaroni and cheese. I was reminded of astronaut food, and indeed, one of the brands offered at Live Live is "Moon Foods".
Next door to Live Live is NYC's only raw foods chain: Quintessence. With three locations, Quintessence has been detoxifying New Yorkers since 1999. Their philosophy is: "Treat your body like a temple and it will be heaven again." (Personally, I find it pretty easy to feel heavenly; I just pop a Knipschildt truffle into my mouth.)
I invited an adventurous companion to Quintessence for a raw foods adventure. We began our meal with the vegetable chowder, a delicious green puree thickened with nuts. The cold soup was perfect for the summertime. We were then to find that "raw" doesn't necessarily mean "quick"; our stomachs growled as we waited for our entrees. Our waitress patiently explained that my squash "spaghetti" was in the dehydrator. When it finally arrived, the "spaghetti" al pesto was interspersed with tasty marinated mushrooms and sundried tomatoes, but I couldn't get past the crunchy vegetal texture of the "pasta". My companion ordered the "round-the-world" platter: a sampling of hummus and falafel, malai kofta, "ravioli", a Japanese hand roll and a salad. The sunflower-seed pate in the hand roll played the role of a tuna tartare filling, and the raw hummus was actually very good, if a bit grainy.
Naturally, the highlight for me was dessert: a coconut cream pie had a sweet nut crust, and it was festively drizzled with carob syrup in an approximation of chocolate sauce. No, carob is not chocolate, but at least it looks like it.
(I am ashamed to admit that I ended the evening with a trip to Il Gelatone.)
Eat Raw: 426 15th St., Brooklyn, (718) 210-0048. Live Live, 261 E. 10th St., (212) 505-5504. Quintessence: 263 E. 10th St., (646) 654-1804.
"Dear Salli,After verifying that the writer was serious (how does one live without chocolate and fondue?), I set off on a mission to see if she could find nourishment in New York.
I am a raw-food vegan who will be visiting NYC for the first time. I eat fruits, nuts, vegetables and sprouted grains, but no meats, dairy products or foods heated above 118 degrees. Are there any places I can eat?"
First, I walked over to Eat Raw, a store which trumpets its cause right in the name. In addition to offering natural skin care products, Eat Raw sells crackers, cookies, nut butters, dried fruit and walnut-tahini "truffles". Unfortunately, I found the onion "Essene" bread and apple crunch bars very difficult to chew. I had better luck with the "Raweos", which tasted more like macaroons than Oreos (and that's a good thing).
Next, I took the F train to the East Village and strode into Live Live, where the proprietor was astonishingly thin! Looking at him, I immediately craved a huge plate of fettucini alfredo, but I squelched the urge (I was on a mission, remember) and bought a $6 package of "mac & cheese" instead. This concoction was a bar of macadamia nuts, kale, and red pepper; disturbingly, it was somewhat reminiscent of macaroni and cheese. I was reminded of astronaut food, and indeed, one of the brands offered at Live Live is "Moon Foods".
Next door to Live Live is NYC's only raw foods chain: Quintessence. With three locations, Quintessence has been detoxifying New Yorkers since 1999. Their philosophy is: "Treat your body like a temple and it will be heaven again." (Personally, I find it pretty easy to feel heavenly; I just pop a Knipschildt truffle into my mouth.)
I invited an adventurous companion to Quintessence for a raw foods adventure. We began our meal with the vegetable chowder, a delicious green puree thickened with nuts. The cold soup was perfect for the summertime. We were then to find that "raw" doesn't necessarily mean "quick"; our stomachs growled as we waited for our entrees. Our waitress patiently explained that my squash "spaghetti" was in the dehydrator. When it finally arrived, the "spaghetti" al pesto was interspersed with tasty marinated mushrooms and sundried tomatoes, but I couldn't get past the crunchy vegetal texture of the "pasta". My companion ordered the "round-the-world" platter: a sampling of hummus and falafel, malai kofta, "ravioli", a Japanese hand roll and a salad. The sunflower-seed pate in the hand roll played the role of a tuna tartare filling, and the raw hummus was actually very good, if a bit grainy.
Naturally, the highlight for me was dessert: a coconut cream pie had a sweet nut crust, and it was festively drizzled with carob syrup in an approximation of chocolate sauce. No, carob is not chocolate, but at least it looks like it.
(I am ashamed to admit that I ended the evening with a trip to Il Gelatone.)
Eat Raw: 426 15th St., Brooklyn, (718) 210-0048. Live Live, 261 E. 10th St., (212) 505-5504. Quintessence: 263 E. 10th St., (646) 654-1804.
Saturday, July 19, 2003
Chocolate Tastings At The Museum Of Natural History
Here's an educational way to sweeten up your weekends throughout the summer.
Monday, July 07, 2003
Brunch At Paradou (Closed as of 1/31/04)
Yesterday, I awoke with a craving for crepes. As the morning wore on, I also developed an intense craving for chocolate truffles (an almost daily occurrence). Fortunately, I was able to satisfy both desires in one place: the new Paradou in Park Slope.
Our savory whole-wheat crepes (ham, Comte cheese and egg with a hint of Dijon mustard, and smoked salmon with lemon creme fraiche and asparagus) were gigantic and generous with filling. The crepes were folded over to make room for refreshing green salads.
Not once in my life have I been able to resist ordering a dessert crepe when I see one on the menu. It was easy to succumb to the temptation at Paradou, which offers six sweet varieties. Since I was with fellow chocolate lovers, we shared the chocolate creme de menthe (a light, eggy crepe filled with melted dark chocolate and doused with mint syrup) and the sugar-sprinkled Nutella banana.
At this point I was quite full, but I mustered up all of my remaining appetite for the Joel Durand truffles, for which Paradou is the exclusive U.S. distributor. The complex flavors of these exotic treats rivaled those of Bernard Callebaut and Jacques Torres. I was especially impressed by the herbal green cardamom, the Corsican bitter honey, and the salted butter caramel. On future visits, I plan to try the entire collection!
Paradou: 426 7th Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 499-5557. For Manhattanites, the original location is 8 Little West 12th St., (212) 463-8345.
Our savory whole-wheat crepes (ham, Comte cheese and egg with a hint of Dijon mustard, and smoked salmon with lemon creme fraiche and asparagus) were gigantic and generous with filling. The crepes were folded over to make room for refreshing green salads.
Not once in my life have I been able to resist ordering a dessert crepe when I see one on the menu. It was easy to succumb to the temptation at Paradou, which offers six sweet varieties. Since I was with fellow chocolate lovers, we shared the chocolate creme de menthe (a light, eggy crepe filled with melted dark chocolate and doused with mint syrup) and the sugar-sprinkled Nutella banana.
At this point I was quite full, but I mustered up all of my remaining appetite for the Joel Durand truffles, for which Paradou is the exclusive U.S. distributor. The complex flavors of these exotic treats rivaled those of Bernard Callebaut and Jacques Torres. I was especially impressed by the herbal green cardamom, the Corsican bitter honey, and the salted butter caramel. On future visits, I plan to try the entire collection!
Paradou: 426 7th Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 499-5557. For Manhattanites, the original location is 8 Little West 12th St., (212) 463-8345.
Thursday, June 26, 2003
Pearl Oyster Bar
The blazing sun heralded the arrival of summer after weeks of rain. Naturally, my thoughts turned to lobster rolls. Since I was not able to go to the beach, I took the F train to the West Village and walked into the much-beloved Pearl Oyster Bar. However, once inside the shellfish mecca, I became distracted by the various delicacies which competed for my attention. Jumbo lump crabcakes, fried oyster rolls... the embarrassment of riches overwhelmed me. After much soul-searching, I finally decided on a golden-brown pan-fried cod fillet on thick toasted bread with caper tartar sauce, red onion and ripe tomato, served with a heap of toothpick-thin shoestring fries. When I remarked upon the capers in the tartar sauce, the friendly waitress offered, "If you want the recipe, you'll find it in this new book just released by chef Rebecca Charles!" I glanced at the blueberry crumble pie recipe; now I can't wait until the blueberries are in season!
Pearl Oyster Bar: 18 Cornelia Street, (212) 691-8211.
Pearl Oyster Bar: 18 Cornelia Street, (212) 691-8211.
Saturday, June 21, 2003
Alice's Tea Cup
Is the constant rain getting you down? Shake the rain off your umbrella and walk down a couple steps to the warm and inviting Alice's Tea Cup. Pour yourself a pot of exotic vanilla-scented Mauritius tea or Red Fruits Indian tea flavored with strawberry, raspberry, red currant and cherry. Then you'll be ready for a flaky and buttery fresh-baked scone served with raspberry jam and clotted cream (I especially appreciate the strawberry scones). Or if you'd like something savory, bite into a mustardy tuna salad sandwich. If you bring friends under the age of two, they will appreciate the daily homemade pureed baby food. If you'd like to postpone your reentry into the puddle that passes for Manhattan these days, take a moment to admire all of the tea-oriented gifts up front (lovely teapots and toiletries like "Body Tea").
Alice's Tea Cup: 102 West 73rd St., (212) 799-3006.
Alice's Tea Cup: 102 West 73rd St., (212) 799-3006.
Tuesday, June 17, 2003
Wednesday, June 11, 2003
Finally, Good Pizza In Park Slope!
Last night my companion and I decided to take a walk down 5th Ave. in Brooklyn. We were hungry for something Italian, but we didn't want to pull out all the stops at Al Di La. I made a mental list of the casual dining options in the area and realized that I would probably have to settle for a sandwich. However, as we began to walk in the direction of Press 195, I noticed a large and bustling restaurant on the right side of the street. Drawing closer, I saw a counter overflowing with large pizza pies and a sign that said "La Villa".
Apparently, the new Park Slope location of this Howard Beach pizzeria is the only one with a wood-burning oven, and some of the results are comparable to Nick's in Forest Hills: the crisp and textured crust provides the foundation for a toothsome combination of thinly sliced fresh mozzarella, San Marzano tomatoes, herbs and olive oil. Both thin (Napoletana) and thick-crusted (Siciliana) varieties of pizza are available. I could not believe our good luck as I bit into a garlicky focaccia di nonna, or "grandma's pizza", which I preferred to the blander margherita. My companion and I also split a large plate of fried zucchini and an order of penne with sauteed spinach. On my next visit, which should be within the week, I shall either try one of the grilled panini or the sottosopra, an "upside-down" pizza with layers of homemade mozzarella baked under the sauce. If you beat me to it, please feel free to E-mail me a report!
La Villa: 261 5th Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 499-9888.
Apparently, the new Park Slope location of this Howard Beach pizzeria is the only one with a wood-burning oven, and some of the results are comparable to Nick's in Forest Hills: the crisp and textured crust provides the foundation for a toothsome combination of thinly sliced fresh mozzarella, San Marzano tomatoes, herbs and olive oil. Both thin (Napoletana) and thick-crusted (Siciliana) varieties of pizza are available. I could not believe our good luck as I bit into a garlicky focaccia di nonna, or "grandma's pizza", which I preferred to the blander margherita. My companion and I also split a large plate of fried zucchini and an order of penne with sauteed spinach. On my next visit, which should be within the week, I shall either try one of the grilled panini or the sottosopra, an "upside-down" pizza with layers of homemade mozzarella baked under the sauce. If you beat me to it, please feel free to E-mail me a report!
La Villa: 261 5th Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 499-9888.
How To Prevent A Food Fight
Apparently, criminal charges may be filed against a group of food-hurling students. The news reports do not specify which foods were being thrown, but I imagine that they weren't particularly tasty. However, a new approach to school food could provide a solution to the problem of projectile pizza.
Tuesday, June 10, 2003
A Delightful Weekday Breakfast
I decided to prolong the relaxation of my vacation with a leisurely breakfast at 'ino. Their breakfast menu offers several variations on the theme of eggs and bread: truffled egg toast, bruschetta topped with scrambled eggs and either asparagus or pancetta, and my personal favorite: egg and fontina with caramelized onions on grilled ciabatta from Blue Ribbon Bakery. A glass of fresh-squeezed orange juice, a strong latte and a glance at the paper completed my transition back into the rhythms of NYC.
'ino: 21 Bedford St., (212) 989-5769
'ino: 21 Bedford St., (212) 989-5769
Thursday, June 05, 2003
A Note From The Road
For those of you who feel that sweets are a philosophy, here is an exhibit I have just attended that may be of interest to you. (After three weeks of Canadian ice wine, Saskatoon berries and wild Pacific salmon, I shall fly back to New York on Sunday.)
Saturday, May 17, 2003
Ah...Vacation!
Your partner in gluttony will be away for three weeks. However, you can still salivate over these archives! While you are doing so, you might want to munch on one of Payard's chocolate almond cakes. Ta ta!
Thursday, May 15, 2003
Jewel Bako
"We have some OUTSTANDING fish tonight!" enthused Jack Lamb, the owner of sushi nirvana Jewel Bako. Sitting in the small gilt and bamboo-appointed room, my companion and I exchanged a look of anticipation. After briefly perusing the menu, we decided to go with the chef's choice (omakase), which ended up being ten courses of utter delight!
First up was a small "gift from the chef" of grated daikon, salmon roe and a tiny shiso leaf. This was served with Yatsushiku sake, which tasted to me of caramel. We also sampled the Cherry Blossom sake, a lighter variety, and the intense "Dragon's Quivering Tongue", described by Lamb as "diabolical". (Throughout the evening, we delighted in listening to Lamb's wealth of information; he is a walking encyclopedia of Japanese food and culture. Who knew that there were over 2,000 kinds of sake in Japan?)
We then enjoyed a refreshing salad of wild greens and green tea noodles in a light soy dressing garnished with pine nuts and shimeji mushrooms. A gorgeous cylinder of tuna tartare was next, then a foil package of three types of steam-roasted Japanese mushrooms.
Next up was our first taste of what makes Jewel Bako a local legend. An extraordinary sashimi course included three kinds of yellowtail, baby firefly squid with a sweet miso dip, red snapper and live shrimp ("Just tickle it and it wiggles," joked Lamb). Everything was at the peak of freshness; I could have been at the Tsukiji fish market in Tokyo.
A clear soup tasted mildly of bonito and featured two crumbly yellowtail "meatballs" and tart strips of citrus zest.
Finally, it was time for the piece de resistance: an oblong plate dotted with 11 pieces of sushi! Among the standouts were: fresh sea eel as rich as liver (never will I eat that microwaved barbecued eel ever again), the ultimate belly of fatty tuna, a sweet clam, lightly seared Japanese black bass, salty white salmon, Kyoto-style pressed sushi, and the chef's special: jack mackerel tartare with spicy baby ginger under a peelaway shiso leaf. Every bite was so delicious that I had to close my eyes.
As if that weren't enough, we were in for three dessert courses: a rich, floral coconut lychee sorbet, a special pastry from Payard which was a teardrop of green tea cake filled with strawberry jam and topped with vanilla mousse, and some crunchy peanut cookies from Kyoto with organic Yamaguchi plum wine.
The courses were spread out so that we had an opportunity to bask in a Zen-like appreciation of every dish. Each edible landscape of colors and textures was presented to us on a plate of a different shape. Jewel Bako's aesthetic, combined with its absolute passion for freshness and attention to detail, made for a top-notch sushi experience!
Jewel Bako: 239 E. 5th St., (212) 979-1012.
First up was a small "gift from the chef" of grated daikon, salmon roe and a tiny shiso leaf. This was served with Yatsushiku sake, which tasted to me of caramel. We also sampled the Cherry Blossom sake, a lighter variety, and the intense "Dragon's Quivering Tongue", described by Lamb as "diabolical". (Throughout the evening, we delighted in listening to Lamb's wealth of information; he is a walking encyclopedia of Japanese food and culture. Who knew that there were over 2,000 kinds of sake in Japan?)
We then enjoyed a refreshing salad of wild greens and green tea noodles in a light soy dressing garnished with pine nuts and shimeji mushrooms. A gorgeous cylinder of tuna tartare was next, then a foil package of three types of steam-roasted Japanese mushrooms.
Next up was our first taste of what makes Jewel Bako a local legend. An extraordinary sashimi course included three kinds of yellowtail, baby firefly squid with a sweet miso dip, red snapper and live shrimp ("Just tickle it and it wiggles," joked Lamb). Everything was at the peak of freshness; I could have been at the Tsukiji fish market in Tokyo.
A clear soup tasted mildly of bonito and featured two crumbly yellowtail "meatballs" and tart strips of citrus zest.
Finally, it was time for the piece de resistance: an oblong plate dotted with 11 pieces of sushi! Among the standouts were: fresh sea eel as rich as liver (never will I eat that microwaved barbecued eel ever again), the ultimate belly of fatty tuna, a sweet clam, lightly seared Japanese black bass, salty white salmon, Kyoto-style pressed sushi, and the chef's special: jack mackerel tartare with spicy baby ginger under a peelaway shiso leaf. Every bite was so delicious that I had to close my eyes.
As if that weren't enough, we were in for three dessert courses: a rich, floral coconut lychee sorbet, a special pastry from Payard which was a teardrop of green tea cake filled with strawberry jam and topped with vanilla mousse, and some crunchy peanut cookies from Kyoto with organic Yamaguchi plum wine.
The courses were spread out so that we had an opportunity to bask in a Zen-like appreciation of every dish. Each edible landscape of colors and textures was presented to us on a plate of a different shape. Jewel Bako's aesthetic, combined with its absolute passion for freshness and attention to detail, made for a top-notch sushi experience!
Jewel Bako: 239 E. 5th St., (212) 979-1012.
Yonah Schimmel Knishery
Do you have a palate but no wallet? The humane folks at Yonah Schimmel Knishery will stuff you to the gills for less than the price of a round-trip Metrocard. For $2-3, you can inhale a giant, flaky knish overflowing with your choice of filling: traditional potato, oniony kasha, sweet potato, broccoli, jalapeno cheddar, or even pizza! And for those of your relatives who have the misfortune of not residing in NYC (or who refuse to leave the Upper East Side), Schimmel's will ship the luscious knishes anywhere in the continental US.
Yonah Schimmel Knishery: 137 E. Houston St., (212) 477-2858.
Yonah Schimmel Knishery: 137 E. Houston St., (212) 477-2858.
Wednesday, May 14, 2003
Afternoon Tea At The Mark Hotel (CLOSED)
Grandma immensely enjoyed our tea at Fauchon, so we decided to recreate the experience at The Mark Hotel. At The Mark, there are three varieties of afternoon tea: the Mandarin, which features Chinese tea and almond cookies baked to order, the Strawberry Cream Tea, which includes strawberries and Chantilly cream, and the traditional Afternoon Tea (our choice). Grandma was a huge fan of the chicken mousse tea sandwich and the smoked salmon on black bread. Also gracing our plates were thick slices of banana bread, tiny chocolate tarts, pineapple coconut cakes and homemade raisin scones with mascarpone cheese. (For the persnickety in our party, there was a bloody-rare burger with fries.) Generously, our waiter provided extra complimentary sandwiches and pots of Ceylon tea. If you would like to learn about the art of Chinese tea, you can still snag a spot at the June 6 class with with Tea Master Ringo Lo (call 212-879-1864 for information and reservations).
The Mark Hotel: 25 East 77th St., (212) 744-4300.
The Mark Hotel: 25 East 77th St., (212) 744-4300.
A Rainbow Of Marzipan
Some people buy the same shirt in several different colors; I just buy marzipan bars in different flavors. At Teuscher Chocolates Of Switzerland, foil-wrapped marzipan is color-coded by flavor: pink for raspberry, yellow for lemon, green for pistachio, blue for plain. I just bought one of each!
Teuscher Chocolates Of Switzerland: 620 5th Ave. at Rockefeller Center, (212) 246-4416.
Teuscher Chocolates Of Switzerland: 620 5th Ave. at Rockefeller Center, (212) 246-4416.
Monday, May 12, 2003
Love In The Clouds
First cigarettes, now Oreos may eventually go the way of the dodo bird. However, you can still enjoy a nominally healthier version of the latter at the Two Little Red Hens bakery. Their cookie creation, enticingly named "Love In The Clouds", is a chocolate-pepper cookie sandwich with a layer of sugary vanilla cream in the middle.
Two Little Red Hens: 1652 Second Ave., (212) 452-0476.
Two Little Red Hens: 1652 Second Ave., (212) 452-0476.
Saturday, May 03, 2003
Upcoming Event: Brittany Wine Dinner At Cocotte (CLOSED AS OF 2008)
After inhaling a molten chocolate cake at Cocotte this evening, I was reminded of some information that I meant to impart to you sooner:
The Prospect Wine Shop, in concert with Cocotte Restaurant, will be celebrating the cuisine of Brittany on Tuesday, May 6 with a special tasting dinner. The four-course meal, which features such delicacies as "Leg of Rabbit Braised in Breton Honey-and-Apple Liqueur, Bacon and Dried Plums, Served with Yukon Gold Purée" and "Seared Maine Diver Sea Scallops with Grilled Portobello Mushrooms in a Vermouth Herbed Cream Sauce," will be complemented by wines from the Loire Valley. For reservations, please call Christine at Cocotte: (718) 832-6848.
Cocotte Restaurant: 337 Fifth Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 832-6848.
The Prospect Wine Shop, in concert with Cocotte Restaurant, will be celebrating the cuisine of Brittany on Tuesday, May 6 with a special tasting dinner. The four-course meal, which features such delicacies as "Leg of Rabbit Braised in Breton Honey-and-Apple Liqueur, Bacon and Dried Plums, Served with Yukon Gold Purée" and "Seared Maine Diver Sea Scallops with Grilled Portobello Mushrooms in a Vermouth Herbed Cream Sauce," will be complemented by wines from the Loire Valley. For reservations, please call Christine at Cocotte: (718) 832-6848.
Cocotte Restaurant: 337 Fifth Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 832-6848.
Monday, April 28, 2003
Attention: "Gustatory Athletes"
Were you always the last to be chosen for the kickball team? Do you primarily attend baseball games for the hot dogs and cotton candy? Don't despair, there's still a competitive sport for you.
Friday, April 25, 2003
Beyond Biscotti
The practice of accompanying a cappuccino with a cookie has been popularized by Starbucks, which sells overly sweet, prepackaged biscotti. Let me offer you some toothsome variations on the caffeine-and-sugar theme.
If you can tear your eyes from the pastries at Tarallucci E Vino, you will notice some very special glass jars near the cashier. One is filled with torroncini. This orange-scented, honey-sweetened delight is halfway between an almond nougat candy bar and a cookie. A touch of black pepper renders it irresistible and addictive, but if you'd like something with more crunch, try the pepatelli: long, cinnamon-y almond cookies topped with a layer of meringue.
(If you can't tear your eyes from the pastries, by all means, succumb. There are chocolate-filled donuts, coronets, blueberry coconut cakes, eclairs, chocolate mousse and much more.)
Some afternoons find me in the long line at Crestanello, waiting to order some amaretti (three for $1) or pignoli with my cappuccino. The round amaretti are soft in the center and sugar-dusted, and the coffee is proudly custom-blended. (Crestanello is a great choice for a quick Italian lunch without table service. The cafe even imports its own olive oil.) I am the woman sitting near the front who can't restrain herself from eating the cookies before her penne al pomodoro.
Tarallucci E Vino, 163 First Ave., (212) 388-1190. Crestanello Gran Caffe Italiano: 475 Fifth Ave., (212) 545-9996.
If you can tear your eyes from the pastries at Tarallucci E Vino, you will notice some very special glass jars near the cashier. One is filled with torroncini. This orange-scented, honey-sweetened delight is halfway between an almond nougat candy bar and a cookie. A touch of black pepper renders it irresistible and addictive, but if you'd like something with more crunch, try the pepatelli: long, cinnamon-y almond cookies topped with a layer of meringue.
(If you can't tear your eyes from the pastries, by all means, succumb. There are chocolate-filled donuts, coronets, blueberry coconut cakes, eclairs, chocolate mousse and much more.)
Some afternoons find me in the long line at Crestanello, waiting to order some amaretti (three for $1) or pignoli with my cappuccino. The round amaretti are soft in the center and sugar-dusted, and the coffee is proudly custom-blended. (Crestanello is a great choice for a quick Italian lunch without table service. The cafe even imports its own olive oil.) I am the woman sitting near the front who can't restrain herself from eating the cookies before her penne al pomodoro.
Tarallucci E Vino, 163 First Ave., (212) 388-1190. Crestanello Gran Caffe Italiano: 475 Fifth Ave., (212) 545-9996.
Monday, April 21, 2003
Japanese Sweets at the Brooklyn Botanic Garden
This weekend, celebrate the warmer weather with a Japanese pastry or three. Chef Motohiro Inaba of beloved tearoom Toraya will be providing a demonstration on the preparation of the festive Japanese sweets known as wagashi. You can see the artist at work on Saturday, April 26 from 12-1 p.m at the BBG's Alfred T. White Memorial Amphitheater. Japanese food and beverages will be available at the cherry esplanade from 11-5:30, and pastries will be sold on the rotunda from 1-5 p.m. (Afterword: The bento boxes were truly horrid, but Toraya lived up to its name with ginger-perfumed "moon cakes" stuffed with moist, sweet red bean jam.)
Brooklyn Botanic Garden: 1000 Washington Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 623-7200. Or, if you'd rather go straight to the source, the Toraya tearoom is located at 17 E. 71st St., (212) 861-1700.
Brooklyn Botanic Garden: 1000 Washington Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 623-7200. Or, if you'd rather go straight to the source, the Toraya tearoom is located at 17 E. 71st St., (212) 861-1700.
Thursday, April 17, 2003
Afternoon Tea at Fauchon (CLOSED)
My grandmother never leaves the house without lipstick and heels. Being quite the social creature, she thrives on her excursions, but the harsh weather has made it difficult for her to go out. Last week, the thermostat finally reached 50 degrees, so I decided to pamper her with an afternoon tea. I just needed to find a sufficiently elegant venue for such a lady.
I found the perfect solution in Fauchon, the condiment nirvana that houses a charming tearoom. With its comfortable chairs and attentive waiters, Fauchon is an oasis of civility.
The extensive tea menu is organized into such categories as Ceylon, Assam, Darjeeling, Chinese, Japanese, flavored and herbal. Although I was intrigued by the geranium and ylang-ylang, I settled on a fragrant Earl Grey with flowers. I never knew that a cup of tea could be so flavorful! My grandmother opted for French-pressed coffee with a flask of warmed cream.
We ordered an afternoon tea for two. (There is also an a la carte menu, which includes light meals such as salads, quiches, and soups.) Our trays overflowed with five different tea sandwiches (I liked the cucumber watercress and the crabmeat), small crackers topped with either foie gras or smoked salmon belly, and sweets galore: raspberry linzer cookies, hazelnut sables, moelleux in flavors of pignoli, hazelnut, and pecan, small orange and chocolate eclairs, slices of fruitcake, petits fours, the famous almond-flour macarons, and finally, chocolates! Chocolates with the Fauchon emblem in gold, chocolates with a layer of crunchy rock sugar.
After a satisfied final sip of coffee, my delighted grandmother purchased an entire box of pistachio, apple, and chocolate-raspberry macarons to take home! (I think she will be venturing out very soon to replenish her supply.)
Fauchon: 442 Park Ave., (212) 308-5919. (There is also a much smaller location at 1000 Madison Ave.)
I found the perfect solution in Fauchon, the condiment nirvana that houses a charming tearoom. With its comfortable chairs and attentive waiters, Fauchon is an oasis of civility.
The extensive tea menu is organized into such categories as Ceylon, Assam, Darjeeling, Chinese, Japanese, flavored and herbal. Although I was intrigued by the geranium and ylang-ylang, I settled on a fragrant Earl Grey with flowers. I never knew that a cup of tea could be so flavorful! My grandmother opted for French-pressed coffee with a flask of warmed cream.
We ordered an afternoon tea for two. (There is also an a la carte menu, which includes light meals such as salads, quiches, and soups.) Our trays overflowed with five different tea sandwiches (I liked the cucumber watercress and the crabmeat), small crackers topped with either foie gras or smoked salmon belly, and sweets galore: raspberry linzer cookies, hazelnut sables, moelleux in flavors of pignoli, hazelnut, and pecan, small orange and chocolate eclairs, slices of fruitcake, petits fours, the famous almond-flour macarons, and finally, chocolates! Chocolates with the Fauchon emblem in gold, chocolates with a layer of crunchy rock sugar.
After a satisfied final sip of coffee, my delighted grandmother purchased an entire box of pistachio, apple, and chocolate-raspberry macarons to take home! (I think she will be venturing out very soon to replenish her supply.)
Fauchon: 442 Park Ave., (212) 308-5919. (There is also a much smaller location at 1000 Madison Ave.)
Wednesday, April 09, 2003
Acqua Pazza (Closed in 2006)
I love simply prepared fresh fish; the salt-baked bass at Al Di La is always delectable, as are the whole fish at Esca, Teodora and Milos Estiatorio. However, I may have just encountered a dish that blows all others out of the (ahem) water!
Acqua pazza, the signature dish of the eponymous eatery, is a whole fish baked a bath of seawater, Sicilian sea salt, white wine and cherry tomatoes, and drizzled with extra-virgin olive oil. The saltwater preparation renders the fish absolutely moist and flavorful. According to proprietor Umberto Arpaia, acqua pazza, or "crazy water", is the creation of Neapolitan fishermen who wanted to make sure they had something tasty to eat in case they were stranded in rough seas. Before setting out on a journey, they would stock up on olive oil and cherry tomatoes. Necessity is thus the mother of perfection! Today's fish was sea bass, which was accompanied by a small plate of chard and potatoes. Other fish on the menu include salmon, swordfish and grilled yellowfin tuna with balsamic vinegar.
My companion and I began our meal by dipping our warm crusty bread into the white bean scallion spread, then dug into bowls of sedanini. These were ribbed tubes of pasta interspersed with basil, plum tomatoes, and eggplant, and topped with zesty salted ricotta. (On my next visit, I will have to try the intriguing tagliolini al caffe: espresso noodles with white shrimp and porcini mushrooms.)
After the afore-mentioned sea bass and a chicken paillard with mozzarella and tomato, a small plate of homemade cookies made their appearance. The sugar-dusted pistachio biscotti and small chocolate-dipped butter cookies were perfect with coffee, but we went the extra mile and ordered zuccotto, a dome of chocolate mousse with caramel and passionfruit coulis. Maybe next time we'll sample the baba (sponge cake) with a choice of Haitian, Anguillan or Puerto Rican rum, or the sinfonia, a trio of chocolate sorbet, flourless chocolate cake, and rich dark chocolate mousse. One thing is certain; I am now a perfect sailing companion, as my meal at Acqua Pazza has transformed me into a human flotation pillow.
Acqua Pazza: 36 W. 52nd St., (212) 582-6900.
Acqua pazza, the signature dish of the eponymous eatery, is a whole fish baked a bath of seawater, Sicilian sea salt, white wine and cherry tomatoes, and drizzled with extra-virgin olive oil. The saltwater preparation renders the fish absolutely moist and flavorful. According to proprietor Umberto Arpaia, acqua pazza, or "crazy water", is the creation of Neapolitan fishermen who wanted to make sure they had something tasty to eat in case they were stranded in rough seas. Before setting out on a journey, they would stock up on olive oil and cherry tomatoes. Necessity is thus the mother of perfection! Today's fish was sea bass, which was accompanied by a small plate of chard and potatoes. Other fish on the menu include salmon, swordfish and grilled yellowfin tuna with balsamic vinegar.
My companion and I began our meal by dipping our warm crusty bread into the white bean scallion spread, then dug into bowls of sedanini. These were ribbed tubes of pasta interspersed with basil, plum tomatoes, and eggplant, and topped with zesty salted ricotta. (On my next visit, I will have to try the intriguing tagliolini al caffe: espresso noodles with white shrimp and porcini mushrooms.)
After the afore-mentioned sea bass and a chicken paillard with mozzarella and tomato, a small plate of homemade cookies made their appearance. The sugar-dusted pistachio biscotti and small chocolate-dipped butter cookies were perfect with coffee, but we went the extra mile and ordered zuccotto, a dome of chocolate mousse with caramel and passionfruit coulis. Maybe next time we'll sample the baba (sponge cake) with a choice of Haitian, Anguillan or Puerto Rican rum, or the sinfonia, a trio of chocolate sorbet, flourless chocolate cake, and rich dark chocolate mousse. One thing is certain; I am now a perfect sailing companion, as my meal at Acqua Pazza has transformed me into a human flotation pillow.
Acqua Pazza: 36 W. 52nd St., (212) 582-6900.
Monday, April 07, 2003
Battle of the Brunches (Part 1)
This past weekend, I made it my business to brunch at two different French bistros in Brooklyn: Moutarde and Loulou. Although both have much to recommend them, Loulou (CLOSED AS OF 6/09) really claimed a corner of my heart (and more than a corner of my stomach).
At Moutarde, I appreciated the pain au chocolat and buttery croissants in the breadbasket. The orange juice is not fresh-squeezed, but the coffee is good and strong. The menu mostly consists of egg dishes such as omelettes and scrambled eggs with caramelized onions. I did enjoy my generously hollandaised salmon Eggs Benedict with mesclun greens and roasted potatoes; the English muffins were crisply toasted.
Loulou is charming, rustic, and tiny. Watching the heaping plates of pain perdu (bourbon French toast) pass by, I felt as though I was living in Babette's Feast. The menu offers more variety than that of Moutarde, and the fresh orange juice is honey-sweet. I couldn't decide between the moules frites, palette (bread, egg and vegetable pancake), or the apple cinnamon crêpe. Finally I delighted in a savory egg and cheese crêpe with green salad. However, it wasn't quite enough to sate my legendary appetite, so I gave in to the craving for a warm bread pudding. Dense and eggy, sweet with maple syrup and smothered with melted semi-sweet chocolate, it was a recipe from heaven.
Moutarde: 239 Fifth Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 623-3600. Loulou: 222 DeKalb Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 246-0633.
At Moutarde, I appreciated the pain au chocolat and buttery croissants in the breadbasket. The orange juice is not fresh-squeezed, but the coffee is good and strong. The menu mostly consists of egg dishes such as omelettes and scrambled eggs with caramelized onions. I did enjoy my generously hollandaised salmon Eggs Benedict with mesclun greens and roasted potatoes; the English muffins were crisply toasted.
Loulou is charming, rustic, and tiny. Watching the heaping plates of pain perdu (bourbon French toast) pass by, I felt as though I was living in Babette's Feast. The menu offers more variety than that of Moutarde, and the fresh orange juice is honey-sweet. I couldn't decide between the moules frites, palette (bread, egg and vegetable pancake), or the apple cinnamon crêpe. Finally I delighted in a savory egg and cheese crêpe with green salad. However, it wasn't quite enough to sate my legendary appetite, so I gave in to the craving for a warm bread pudding. Dense and eggy, sweet with maple syrup and smothered with melted semi-sweet chocolate, it was a recipe from heaven.
Moutarde: 239 Fifth Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 623-3600. Loulou: 222 DeKalb Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 246-0633.
Sunday, March 23, 2003
"Dessert Pizza" in the East Village
Crunchy pizza crust smothered with hazelnut-chocolate spread is a wonderful, if unlikely, new trend. At Pie, they serve it open-faced with sliced bananas. At Lil' Frankie's, they stuff it with strawberries and sprinkle the top with confectioners' sugar. I don't know which version is my favorite... I suppose I will have to sample each one many times over!
Pie: 124 4th Ave., (212) 475-4977. Lil' Frankie's: 19 1st Ave., (212) 420-4900.
Pie: 124 4th Ave., (212) 475-4977. Lil' Frankie's: 19 1st Ave., (212) 420-4900.
Thursday, March 20, 2003
Crunch Time for Pennsylvania (Or Is That Munch Time?)
The Pennsylvania State Senate is wrangling over a bill that would designate the esteemed chocolate-chip cookie as "the official cookie of the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania." Among the bill's arguments: "Pennsylvania is the nation's fourth largest producer of milk, which is the perfect partner to the chocolate chip cookie." I can't disagree with that, but I dare say that if the legislators bit into a chocolate-chunk cookie at NYC's Tuscan Square, they might be humbled into retracting their bill, or at least relocating to New York. The Tuscan Square rendition is a satisfying mouthful of butter, brown sugar, and large semi-sweet chocolate chunks. It's even better when you warm it with your cup of coffee so that the chocolate melts in your mouth.
Tuscan Square: 16 W. 51st St., (212) 977-7777.
Tuscan Square: 16 W. 51st St., (212) 977-7777.
Sunday, March 16, 2003
Kudos for Kudo! (CLOSED 2009)
Do you long for true flavor in your coffee? Do you savor a sip of java like you would a fine wine? But most of all, do you agree that the popular practice of over-roasting coffee beans robs the beverage of its attributes?
Your antidote to burnt-tasting, one-note coffee is Kudo Beans, an East Village café where all of the cashiers are walking encyclopedias of coffee knowledge. Great beans and helpful employees make for a winning combination. On a recent evening, Valerie recommended a fruity Ethiopian Harrar with low acidity, and Guy informed us of a great deal: buy a pound of coffee and get a half-pound free! All coffees are labeled with detailed descriptions. The café, which owns a roasting facility in Queens, bakes croissants and muffins in-house, but also serves pastries from Mother Fortune.
Kudo Beans has some exciting plans in its future. This Thursday, the grand opening of the store will feature live jazz and free food from 6-8 pm. There will soon be a series of "cuppings and tastings" (for more information, contact info@kudobeans.com), and the 28 wonderful varieties of Kudo Coffee will soon be served at a Times Square bookstore. Look out, Starbucks!
Kudo Beans: 49 1/2 1st Ave., (212) 353-1477.
Your antidote to burnt-tasting, one-note coffee is Kudo Beans, an East Village café where all of the cashiers are walking encyclopedias of coffee knowledge. Great beans and helpful employees make for a winning combination. On a recent evening, Valerie recommended a fruity Ethiopian Harrar with low acidity, and Guy informed us of a great deal: buy a pound of coffee and get a half-pound free! All coffees are labeled with detailed descriptions. The café, which owns a roasting facility in Queens, bakes croissants and muffins in-house, but also serves pastries from Mother Fortune.
Kudo Beans has some exciting plans in its future. This Thursday, the grand opening of the store will feature live jazz and free food from 6-8 pm. There will soon be a series of "cuppings and tastings" (for more information, contact info@kudobeans.com), and the 28 wonderful varieties of Kudo Coffee will soon be served at a Times Square bookstore. Look out, Starbucks!
Kudo Beans: 49 1/2 1st Ave., (212) 353-1477.
Saturday, March 15, 2003
Grace On The Go (Closed as of June '03)
This gourmet take-away has only been open since Friday, and people are already coming in to say, "I heard the prosciutto and blue cheese sandwich was great; pack me one of those." Today, it was a feat to get past the videocameras, reporters and inquisitive Slopers in order to peruse the offerings. Good food on 7th Avenue is a real event.
Susan Knightly, the charming chef and manager, said of her creamy squash bisque: "This was a lovely year for squash, they were so sweet. Because of their flavor, it was easy to make the soup low-fat; I just caramelized some onions and added some low-fat milk." (I promptly made off with a pint.) Knightly orders her baked goods from Sullivan Street Bakery; their chewy focaccia sends me into seventh heaven. (As of April, Amy's Bread is their supplier of choice.) I ordered a seared tuna nicoise salad with wonderful garlicky dressing, interspersed bites with the aforementioned focaccia, and ended things with a big chocolate-chip cookie. When I go back (tomorrow), I will buy a brick of macaroni and cheese and perhaps a key lime pie.
Grace's is open from 7 a.m. to 11 p.m, with deliveries at all times. There is a "coffee window" for harried commuters who need those muffins and steaming cups of java on their way to the F train. I know I do!
Grace On The Go: 352 7th Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 499-2019.
Susan Knightly, the charming chef and manager, said of her creamy squash bisque: "This was a lovely year for squash, they were so sweet. Because of their flavor, it was easy to make the soup low-fat; I just caramelized some onions and added some low-fat milk." (I promptly made off with a pint.) Knightly orders her baked goods from Sullivan Street Bakery; their chewy focaccia sends me into seventh heaven. (As of April, Amy's Bread is their supplier of choice.) I ordered a seared tuna nicoise salad with wonderful garlicky dressing, interspersed bites with the aforementioned focaccia, and ended things with a big chocolate-chip cookie. When I go back (tomorrow), I will buy a brick of macaroni and cheese and perhaps a key lime pie.
Grace's is open from 7 a.m. to 11 p.m, with deliveries at all times. There is a "coffee window" for harried commuters who need those muffins and steaming cups of java on their way to the F train. I know I do!
Grace On The Go: 352 7th Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 499-2019.
Friday, March 14, 2003
"The Original" New York Milkshake Co. (Closed as of Mar. 06)
Many moons ago, my great-grandparents owned a candy store in Yorkville, where they dispensed all manner of sodas and egg creams to the neighborhood. They imparted their soda skills to my grandfather, who would scour the Lower East Side for the special chocolate and strawberry syrups he used to make the drinks. One of my last memories of him was watching him go to the refrigerator after I had pleaded for one of his sodas.
Now, Scott Marcus is recreating the authentic New York egg cream experience at his new East Village shop. Opened just two weeks ago, "The Original" New York Milkshake Co. is already serving up large doses of comfort by means of grilled cheese sandwiches, milkshakes, malteds, and giant Whoopee pies (courtesy of the nearby Sticky Fingers Bake Shop). This evening, Scott meticulously coached a new employee in the art of the egg cream while I watched. He then set an overflowing, fizzing cup beside me, urging, "Drink it like a beer!" How could I resist?
Scott plans to begin a delivery service of his nostalgic treats in the next few weeks.
"The Original" New York Milkshake Co.: 37 St. Mark's Place, (212) 505-5200.
Now, Scott Marcus is recreating the authentic New York egg cream experience at his new East Village shop. Opened just two weeks ago, "The Original" New York Milkshake Co. is already serving up large doses of comfort by means of grilled cheese sandwiches, milkshakes, malteds, and giant Whoopee pies (courtesy of the nearby Sticky Fingers Bake Shop). This evening, Scott meticulously coached a new employee in the art of the egg cream while I watched. He then set an overflowing, fizzing cup beside me, urging, "Drink it like a beer!" How could I resist?
Scott plans to begin a delivery service of his nostalgic treats in the next few weeks.
"The Original" New York Milkshake Co.: 37 St. Mark's Place, (212) 505-5200.
Friday, March 07, 2003
Wine and Cheese
Excuse my ebullience; I am rather tipsy. A friend just introduced me to the best-kept secret in Manhattan: the $5 wine tasting at Vintage New York. This charming boutique sells New York-produced wines and cheeses. Sitting at the bar, we admired the Siamese cat and allowed our friendly host Isaiah to guide us through the vast wine list. Not content just to imbibe, we accompanied our reds and whites with award-winning Hudson Valley Camembert and Ewe's Blue from the Old Chatham Sheepherding Company. It was quite an experience to smear the buttery Camembert on slices of baguette in between sips of various wines. Isaiah was generous and threw in a free extra tasting, so I took his suggestion and ordered the refreshing Red Newt Riesling with notes of apples, lychee, and tropical fruits.
Preparing to float out of the store, I suddenly glimpsed a plate of chocolate truffles from 5th Avenue Chocolatiere. Why hadn't I noticed that before? An evening isn't complete without a bite of chocolate.
Vintage New York: 482 Broome St., (212) 226-9463. Also located at 2492 Broadway, (212) 721-9999.
Preparing to float out of the store, I suddenly glimpsed a plate of chocolate truffles from 5th Avenue Chocolatiere. Why hadn't I noticed that before? An evening isn't complete without a bite of chocolate.
Vintage New York: 482 Broome St., (212) 226-9463. Also located at 2492 Broadway, (212) 721-9999.
Sunday, March 02, 2003
Mardi Gras
If you can't make it down to Bourbon Street on Tuesday, I guarantee that one bite of Aunt Sally's Pralines will transport you to New Orleans. You can pick up these scrumptious pecan delights at Martha Frances Mississippi Cheesecake (1707 2nd Ave., 212-360-0900). While you munch, you can learn about Fat Tuesday traditions at the official Mardi Gras Website!
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